Overview:
Two birders based in Brisbane (southern Queensland) birding in South Australia (Stuart Warren and author Colin Reid). In 5 days we visited 4 major sites within easy reach of Adelaide, the state capital – Brookfield Conservation park, the famous Gluepot, Hogwash bend on the Murray and Innes National Park as well as a couple of smaller, local sites.
Getting there and getting around:
Stu had flown down for work on the Thursday. I flew with Virgin Australia early on the Saturday morning, picked up our hire car and then met Stu at Maggie Beer’s in Nuriootpa in the Barossa valley area at lunch time. I had managed to get $99 one way fares both ways -a not unusual price, but excellent value. The hire car was from Europcar - we had booked a Subaru Forester ‘or similar’ as we thought the AWD would be helpful in Gluepot should it rain. They gave me a Nissan X-trail which was even better as it is a 4WD, although in the end it probably would have made little difference as the weather behaved itself. The car did tend to try to vibrate itself to pieces at just over 100 kms per hour and the cruise control wandered 5 kms either side of the setting – other than that it was fine!
We found driving in SA exceptionally easy – 110 km speed limits were common and the roads in good condition – with a lot less traffic than we were used to, except in Adelaide itself. When crossing the city on our last day at 15.30 we were caught in endless traffic jams for no apparent reason.
Gluepot is unsealed road driving – 70 kms in from the last bitumen and sandy, dusty tracks throughout the reserve. The tracks were easy to manage – I did put the car in 4WD for safety rather than necessity – but maintained a speed of at least 70 kms per hour on the inward and outward trips. In the reserve it self the speed limit is 40 kms and we were usually driving well below that.
Innes NP is mostly bitumen with a well graded section to Brown’s beach being the only unsealed surface.
Accommodation:
We had pre-booked nothing! Our information advised that at both Gluepot and Innes self registration was the expectation and proved to be so. We had planned to camp as there was no available accommodation at either location and had brought our one man tents, sleeping bags, mats etc with us.
Camping at Gluepot is restricted to 3 camp sites at various locations around the park and costs $10 per vehicle per night. Each camping area has a toilet – that’s it, no water, no showers, just a drop toilet.
Camping at Innes is also available at a range of sites. Strangely enough one site (Pondalowie) costs $16 per night per vehicle, while the others are all $6. There is no apparent difference between sites that we could see. Possibly the drop toilet in Pondalowie where we chose to stay is of more recent construction, however, if we went again we would definitely stay at Cable Bay – as will become apparent in the detail below. The tent sites at Pondalowie consisted of road base pounded into a cement-like surface – incredibly difficult to drive slim, aluminium tent pegs into. As we were, in essence, backpacking, we did not carry a peg hammer and so had to resort to rocks as hammers – it was not a pleasant experience in the dark on a cold night. Other sites in other areas such as Cable bay did not appear to be quite so ‘unfriendly’. There is also a Day visit fee of $8 to be paid so the total for camping on unyielding ground, with the only facility being a drop toilet, for two nights was, I felt an extortionate, $40.
Communication:
Mobile phone communication was not operating in either Gluepot or Innes NP – elsewhere it was as normal. We did not investigate any other type of Internet or phone communication in SA.
Preparation:
As we were expecting to chase some hard to get species we had made numerous enquiries and researched all available information. Gaining specific direction to some species in Gluepot, for example, can be challenging as they are quite rare and the most recent update is generally from professional guides who, for obvious reasons, do not want detailed locations disclosed to the wider audience. This applies mainly to very restricted species such as Red-lored Whistler, most of the other birds can be found with some hard work and patience.
We found the new version of Thomas and Thomas ‘Birds of Australia’ to be helpful and Peter Wanderers ‘Birding guide to SA’ on the internet to be very detailed and specific and ensured our success with at least one difficult species.
We also asked for and rec’d camping suggestions for Innes from which we made a choice that could have been better!
Trip Summary – birds
We had a wish list, as you do, and feel we were moderately successful – probably more so because of the time of year rather than the overall end result. Several people expressed concern that we were not going at the best time – that Spring would offer more opportunity. They may have been right, but we feel we did pretty well considering.
Red-lored Whistler – let’s start with the hard ones. We did see a singing male at Gluepot. Other than that we can offer no hints, we were given direction under an agreement not to publish, so we apologise in advance that we can’t disclose more. (Photo on World Rarities)
Gilbert’s Whistler – on two of the walks in Gluepot – Malleefowl and Whistler. Probably not too difficult in reality. (Photo on World Rarities)
Western (Mallee) Whipbird – Cape Spencer road, Innes NP. We had advice they were common along the sides of this road behind Cable Bay campsite as well as other locations in the NP. This was the only spot we had them – one pair.
Black-eared Miner – one among a flock of 20 Yellow-throated was most likely our bird. The jury is still debating and may well do so into perpetuity.
Regent Parrot – Hogwash bend as per Peter Wanderer’s Birding Guide to SA – we had them brilliantly in the River Gums. (Photo on World Rarities)
Rock Parrot – one only at Innes NP and then only for a few minutes perched on a bush before it flew high and wide.
Chestnut Quail-thrush – easy peasy, everywhere in Gluepot and Brookfield, very confiding, a real pleasure of a Quail thrush!
Shy Heathwren – on two occasions we had good views of this species, both at Gluepot - a pair on the Mallefowl walk and a single bird on Track 9.
Southern Scrub Robin – on two occasions. Track 9 at Gluepot and the track to Brown’s Beach at Innes NP.
Purple-gaped Honeyeater – we were a bit doubtful about the possibility of success with this bird, but had it on several occasions in Innes NP, at one stage approximately 8 birds together at Brown’s Beach carpark.
Yellow-plumed Honeyeater – ‘you can’t miss them’ was the usual phrase associated with YPH, which was a bit worrying as often this sort of advice imparts the ‘famous last word’s’ syndrome. We did see them at Gluepot, but not as commonly as I had expected and we didn’t see them anywhere else either.
Little Raven – most of the crows we came across on our visit appeared to be Little Ravens. We double checked the calls when they were heard and carefully noted the amount of ‘hackle’ visible. We did see Aust Raven at Innes, but were confident any crows that vocalised at Gluepot were Little Ravens.
Rufous Fieldwren – at Innes on the headlands around the lighthouses. These birds were very washed out compared to inland individuals and the representation in the field guides and caused us some confusion. (Photo on World Rarities)
We did use playback via iPod for most of the difficult birds – this might offend some, but in a short time frame out of the breeding season we felt it did little harm and make no apologies, it is unlikely we would have had as much success without it.
These were some of our target birds and lifers. We did see lots of other great birds which will be described in detail below…
The Trip
14.5.11 Rob pulled into the driveway as I stepped out the front door – timing impeccable. Chucked my back pack and cabin bag and camera into the boot and off we went. Brisbane airport at 5am is still a messy area – must be the only airport I have ever seen controlled by traffic lights and the drop off/pick up area? Don’t get me started..
The Virgin flight left and landed on time and I found the Europcar desk quickly. I had decided to get the car first, then pick up my bag as this might beat the rush – and it did! Finding the Nissan X-trail in the car park I took photos of it from every angle as insurance protection and then headed out and towards the coast line, just down the road from the airport. I cruised along generally heading west getting the feel of the unfamiliar vehicle and location and thinking about a quick visit to Port Gawler possibly before meeting Stu.
I tried to access the Torren’s river mouth with Fairy Tern in mind, but found the apparent access blocked by road works and general industry crowding out access to the waterfront – or maybe I just didn’t go far enough. During this drive I did see hundreds of Common Starlings which I am unused to seeing, and a few common Australian birds. I noticed some of the Magpies had a silvery sheen to their lower backs - these were females and a different form from our familiar Queensland birds. A Hobby caught my attention at one point and a Common Blackbird brought back memories of home (Ireland) as they always do.
I gave away the idea of the river mouth and found my way to the Pt Wakefield road heading north with Port Gawler still vaguely in my sights. Not long after crossing the river wetlands started to appear on the left and I eventually stopped at Barker Inlet for a few minutes for a smoke and a look. Birds one would expect were present – Swamphens, Moorhens, Black Swans, Black Duck, an Aust Grebe, White-faced Herons, Little Pied Cormorant and my first South Australian Singing Honeyeater. A Black-fronted Dotterel gave himself up with careful scrutiny of the muddy spots. I hopped back in the car and continued west, then ignored the Port Wakefield turn off and got lost – well not really, but I wasn’t on the road I expected to be on and so I wasn’t exactly sure where I was…
I noticed it was approaching 10.30 and I still had supplies to purchase so started looking for a Woolworths or Coles supermarket. Found one, filled a trolley, queued to pay, grabbed a McDonald’s coffee and cheeseburger and decided that Port Gawler was not a choice anymore as I had to get to Maggie Beer’s place at Nuriootpa to pick up at Stu by about 12.30 so headed for the Great North Rd and points north.
Arriving in the car park Stu was ready to go so, after quickly grabbing some of the famous Ver-juice for a friend in Brisbane, we headed north again towards Waikerie. An hour or so up the road and Brookfield Conservation Park was signposted. We decided that as Gluepot was only a relatively short distance and it was early in the afternoon we’d stop off and see what Brookfield had to offer.
The park is designed to be driven slowly around on unsealed, well graded tracks and almost immediately we had birds flying across in front of the car so we stopped and wandered the immediate vicinity on foot. Crested Bellbirds, a number of Southern Whitefaces, Brown Treecreeper, White-browed Babbler, Rufous Songlark, Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, Striated Pardalotes, Hooded and a plethora of Red-capped, Robins. A couple of Masked Woodswallows perched up followed quickly by 4 White-browed showing very well in the sunlight while in the distance a pair of Wedge-tailed Eagles circled.
I had a bit of luck. The reserve is specifically known as a premier location for Hairy-nosed Wombat and one can see the evidence of their residence just off track where their burrows resemble earth moving by gigantic rabbits. As we explored these excavations and while looking down a burrow I realised I was looking at the hairy nose of a Wombat a couple of meters down the tunnel! I called Stu to come and see, but unfortunately before he got a look, the wombat must have decided that he didn’t really need the toilet after all and disappeared back underground. Despite our quietly checking every other available burrow we didn’t locate another animal. They are best seen early morning and evening – a time slot we were unable to accommodate, so I counted myself lucky!
We drove on to the Mallee circuit stopping on occasion to follow up on fly bys – Mallee Ringnecks, Mulga Parrots and Brown-headed Honeyeaters all caught our attention and then, as we were on the return leg of the circuit, a low flying bird caught Stu’s eye and following up we got our first trip lifer – Chestnut Quail-thrush. A pair moved unhurriedly across the sand in and out of the low plants and trees, even perching up on a log for an extended period of time affording stunning views. It quickly became our favourite Quail-thrush! A few Splendid Fairy-wrens, Chestnut and Buff-rumped Thornbills and a single Pallid Cuckoo completed our tour of the park.
Returning to the main road we turned left and headed in towards Waikerie – we had Stu’s Tomtom on the windscreen and it made navigation very easy and manageable. Reaching Waikerie we headed straight down to the ferry. The Murray River crossing on the fixed line ferry is considered a part of the road system, there is no payment required and the ferry runs 24 X 7 – unless the river is in flood. Once across we barrelled out towards the turnoff for Gluepot. We were aware that darkness was fast approaching and we had 70 kms of unsealed road ahead of us. The road, as it turned out, was well graded and easy to follow, there were no mishaps and we arrived at the visitor centre at Gluepot just after dark at 18.00. One the way in several Yellow Rosellas and at least one pair of Bluebonnets crossed our path.
We collected some maps, track descriptions and the latest sightings, signed in and paid for two nights camping ($20) and then drove the last couple of Ks to the Babbler Camp site. There were a couple of sites in use but we located an empty one and set up our small one man tents. We were travelling as light as possible so had brought no ‘cooking’ equipment. We did have, however, a 12 volt kettle which when plugged in to a power outlet or the cigarette lighter produced boiled water. The only inconvenience being that it took 15 minutes to boil one jug of water – we did discover that this would provide two decent cups of coffee, but we had to take it in turns when it came to our noodles…so a lot of time was spent standing round the back of the car in the dark watching the kettle and wondering if the car would start in the morning if the battery was drained.
It was dead still; a light cloud cover kept the temperature around 9 – 10 degrees and it was very, very quiet. Stu had his noodles and I was just getting mine when a shape flew overhead. Dropping everything – as you do - we chased after it and in the light of our torches saw an owl perched up ready to go. A Southern Boobook we decided as it silently shadowed off through the trees. We crashed around 21.00 more for lack of anything else to do, rather than a need for sleep and woke around 5.30 to a cool, clear morning.
15.5.11 Rising before dawn allowed us enough time to have a coffee via the stand-around jug and some fruit (Stu’s observation - apples are hard going first thing in the morning!). While so indulging Stu wandered a short distance form the car following a high pitched call which eventuated into a Chestnut Quail-thrush a mere 30 meters from the tents.
We watched it for a bit before heading off up Track 8. We had been given direction to a possible site for Red-lored Whistler under the strict agreement we would not publish the specifics so, enough to say it was off Track 8 and we decided to try for it straight away.
The first birds to grab our attention however were 6 Red-rumped Parrots close by the car, followed by more Chestnut Quail-thrushes, Striped and White-eared Honeyeaters, Red-capped Robins, Grey Currawongs and White-fronted Honeyeaters, the latter a nice bird to see again, having just discovered one the previous weekend in one of our local patches in Brisbane - 800 kms out of range!
A distant flock of Yellow-throated Miners encouraged us to dump the car and hoof it along the trail. There were about 20 birds all doing the Miner thing, calling hysterically, flying in and out of the trees and generally acting like demented housewives who have spotted a burglar.
We worked through the flock bird by bird as best we could – one single attracted our attention. It had more black on the face than the others – i.e. a bigger masked area - and looked ‘different’. I stayed with it and, when it flew to another tree, had a clear view of its rump and back and it was consistently the same colour from nape to tail – a light grey. I called it as a Black-eared Miner to Stu, but the flock had decided that there was nothing more of interest in the immediate area and were moving on rapidly through the bush away from the track and we lost sight of them - and the bird in question. We assumed we would see more flocks but we didn’t - that was it for Miners at Gluepot for us. Do you tick a lifer on such a sighting? Two birders together and only one is certain of identification? As mentioned above – the jury is still out and I am torn.
We reached our advised turn off point and headed off the track. Not far in and a bird in a tree ahead of us warranted a look – a Yellow-plumed Honeyeater, our second lifer for the trip. We soon had 10 or 12 around us calling and providing close and extensive views. Moving on we arrived at the designated spot and played our iPod – within a few minutes we had a response! And shortly thereafter had crippling views of a male Red-lored Whistler in full song on an exposed branch, 20 meters away! Brilliant! I thought Stu was going to pass out with excitement but after a while the Whistler had had his say, we were silent and he headed off to do what he was doing before we rudely interrupted him and we headed back to the car. Back at the track we encountered Weebill, Jacky Winters, a Rufous Whistler and Chestnut-rumped and Inland Thornbills, but no Striated Grasswren despite repeated hopeful playings near good looking habitats.
We discussed our options and decided on the Malleefowl walk. Parking up we headed into the bush following the marked stakes and reached the seat where we sat and watched the Malleefowl mound for a while. However, it looked undisturbed and we figured as it was not the right season it was unlikely to produce the goods. We headed on following the life saving markers seeing Jacky Winters, the odd Yellow-plumed Honeyeater, Weebill and White-eared Honeyeater until Stu again heard a thin high pitched call which completely eluded my aging hearing. We played for Shy Heathwren and I was delighted when a pair responded showing well for quite some time flitting from bush to bush, running up and down fallen branches and generally behaving well for a bird called ‘shy’. I even managed to get some photos which pleased me, although they are record shots for my amusement only…..
Moving on we tried for Gilbert’s Whistler and again were rewarded! We had two birds, both basically unmarked apart from the whitish throat and general overall light grey appearance. We believe they may have been brother and sister as one responded well with song and behaviour while the other continued feeding at a lower more discreet level. We had great views though and again I managed to get some personal shots. So far so good!
We finally reached the turn around point at, supposedly, 2.5 kms – a distance that would, normally, be of little consequence to us. We had obviously walked further with our wanderings and the track’s curves and faced the 2.5 km walk back along the vehicle track with dismay. However there was nothing we could do about it and headed off in the sun reaching the car 30 minutes later feeling unusually exhausted and thirsty. Food and water quickly revived our senses as we decided what to do with the afternoon.
A visit to the visitor’s centre again to check on any updates – nothing new. Hoping a warden would be available for a chat and some pointers for more target species – no one around. So it was Babbler Camp South track and, in particular, any areas of Spinifex . Within the first 100 meters we encountered a bird wave of Grey Fantails, White-browed Treecreepers, Red-capped and Hooded Robins, Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, a Crested Bellbird, Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, Rufous Whistler, Chestnut Quail-thrush, Striated Pardalotes, Yellow-plumed Honeyeaters, a Grey Butcherbird and Splendid Fairy-wrens. Then the track was very quiet for some time - strange how that happens sometimes. We did pick up Inland Thornbills, Mulga Parrot, a large party of White-winged Chough and Grey Currawongs, Brown-headed and Striped Honeyeaters, Variegated Fairy-wrens, Red Wattlebird and Mallee Ringnecks but once again no Striated Grassswren.
Arriving back at the car we again went to the visitor centre to again gain nothing new except a Fan-tailed Cuckoo that flew across in front of us and perched up in sight from the car. By this juncture it was getting on in the afternoon and so we decided to drive the circuit of Track 6 – 7 – 8 and look for flocks of Miners. We set off and shortly met the wardens coming the other way – stopping for a car to car chat we elicited some assistance for Southern Scrub Robin and generally discussed possible sighting locations in the park.
As we drove on darkness fell quickly and it wasn’t long before our headlights picked up a lovely Spotted Nightjar sitting quietly in the road ahead. We had good views via bins from the car but it didn’t hang around when we got out - flashing off into the darkness.
Returning to camp we again stood around the stand-around kettle waiting patiently (?) for coffee and then noodles, bread and boiled eggs brought all the way from Queensland. While we waited we tried for Owlet Nightjar and got three responses locally, but, as usual, no one wanted to show themselves.
Once again we crashed around 21.00…….
16.5.11 ……and woke at 2am absolutely freezing cold. We spent the rest of the night dozing fitfully, cursing quietly and trying to retain some heat. When we eventually emerged at 6.30 we discovered ice on the picnic table and windscreen and, when dismantling our tents, on the inside of our flysheets. It was - 1 degrees at 7.00 and the kettle seemed to take for ever to boil! Once the sun was up however it felt warmer - although the temperature stayed down for some time afterwards.
We drove to Track 9 to follow up on the warden’s advice for Southern Scrub Robin. This species we had been told were ‘everywhere’ at Gluepot but we had seen neither hide nor hair over the past 24 hours. However a quick play on the iPod and an immediate reaction two thirds of the way down Track 9 as a pair of SSRs showed immediately. One sat high in a dead tree providing us with lengthy views and more photos. He was still calling when we left. We also had 4 Mulga Parrots, a pair of Eastern Ringnecks, Red-capped Robins, Jacky Winters, 3 Aust Magpies, Chestnut Quail-thrushes, Chestnut-crowned Babblers, Yellow-plumed Honeyeaters, Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, Striated Pardalotes, Crested Bellbird and another Shy Heathwren popped up, briefly, below the calling Scrub Robin!
We were still desperate for malleefowl and so decided to walk the Whistler Track directly to the ‘tank’ where one had been seen a week or so before… a long shot, but the only one we felt we had. Again within the first 200 meters or so we had heaps of birds – White-browed and Brown Treecreepers, Striated Pardalotes, Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, Weebills, Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, Red-capped Robins, Grey Fantails. We motored on moving as quietly as possible while maintaining a pace to cover the 2 kilometres as quickly as we could. The ‘tank’ is a 44 Gallon drum cut lengthways and placed about 3 meters high on a wooden construction - the idea being to restrict access to open water for pest species such as foxes, wild cats etc. It is comfortably viewed from a strategically placed hide at the same level. We sat for 45 minutes and watched as Yellow-plumed, Brown-headed and Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, 2 Grey Shrike Thrushes, a male Hooded Robin and a female Grey Butcherbird came in to drink. A pair of Striated Pardalotes hung around in good view and Red Wattlebirds were in the trees above. We filled in the form to identify the birds using the tank then headed back the way we had come. A calling bird alerted our attention and shortly we had a nicely coloured male Gilbert’s Whistler responding to our iPod and giving close, if somewhat brief, views. Walking on further we came across another pair and while trying to get photos of the male a flock of Varied Sitellas came in overhead and we were distracted chasing down the black hooded female, so different from the familiar white-headed form in SE Qld.
We arrived back at the car a little later, grabbed something to eat and then headed off on Tracks 6-7-4 to drive the circuit, again looking for flocks of miners as a last ditch effort. We weren’t in luck, although we did have 2 Emus and an Aust Kestrel to add to our Gluepot list.
We left the park at 13.00 and back along the track to the main road. Some confusion as we tried to locate Hogwash Bend via the Tomtom – it sent us across the river via the ferry at Cadell and then wanted to send us back again…we decided to resort to the directions provided by Peter Wanderers guide and so headed for Waikerie with the intention of working back towards Cadell. We stopped at a service station for fuel ($1.45/litre = $65) and asked directions to be advised that ‘the locals take the signs down cause they don’t like the city folk coming in and going mad down there’ OK – fair enough…. We obtained directions to the turnoff back towards Cadell – coming from Cadell it’s the second turn left, there are very few turn offs and this one is on a right hand corner and goes straight down to the river through a vineyard. The road had a closed sign on it, but we drove around it and then stopped when we came to a large pool in the middle of the road – there were two like it and after checking they wouldn’t swallow the car, we drove through quite safely and arrived at the river bank among the huge river gums. It was obvious this area had been recently heavily flooded - hence the road closure and damage. The river gums were OK, of course, in fact probably the healthiest they have been in years as the Murray has suffered dreadfully from irrigation practices along its complete length and has not flooded for years. Yellow Rosellas flew up and through the trees as we searched every movement for our target. Eventually Stu had a female in the ‘scope – Regent Parrot, Yahhooooo! Over the next half an hour we enjoyed the company of perhaps 10 of these spectacular parrots both male and female perched around in nearby trees posing well for close ups with the scope and camera. We also had Noisy Miners, Dusky Moorhen, Aust Darter, Laughing Kookaburra, Whistling Kite, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Aust Magpies, Wood Duck and Great Egret. As we started to drive out a family party of Black-tailed Native Hens crossed the road, we stopped and one youngster decided to check us out and strolled down the road towards us until suddenly realising we weren’t edible panicked and fled, tail cocked high. A flock of 15 Apostlebirds also crossed the road as we came to the vineyard – these were the only ones of both these species we saw on the trip.
So – now the drive to Innes, it was 16.00 when we eventually crossed the Murray again by ferry and hit the road proper – 350 kms to go. We stopped at a BP service station in Port Wakefield for a very poor steakburger and chips, but the shower was very welcome after three days without. The roads were easy, relatively clear of traffic and mostly in good condition. I maintained a fair speed, seeing no animals on the road – in fact we saw almost no road kill at all – apart from mice. There were dozens of them running across the road in places and it was impossible to miss them although I did try as safely as possible – its instinctive!
We arrived at Innes National Park at 22.00 and reviewed the available camp grounds. For some reason Pondalowie cost $16 per night + the $8 day visit fee which I thought a bit steep. In my experience most places charge one or the other – don’t we pay enough taxes? The other sites, for some unexplained reason were priced at $6 a night + the day fee. We had received info that indicated Whipbirds had been heard behind Pondalowie and on the road to Cape Spencer near Cable Bay campground – we decided on Pondalowie, paid our $40 fee for the two nights and drove the 15 kms on the bitumen 40 kms speed limited road to the campsite encountering a few (as it turned out) Western Grey Kangaroos on the way. The camp site is a bit weird – maybe it gets very busy at other times – but it all seems to be wires and poles and the camping sites themselves seem to be made of compacted road base – almost impossible to drive aluminium pegs into. Why on earth they are made so inhospitable I have no idea but it really does deserve the questions - do they want visitors? And have they ever camped themselves? We were using expensive light one man tents with light weight aluminium pegs – fairly standard for back packers I would have thought - but of course were not carrying a peg hammer – one would have needed a heavy mallet to defeat this ground. We resorted to rocks to force our buckling pegs into the iron hard surface – not a particularly pleasant experience on a cold autumn night. Anyway, as we struggled with the ground our stand-around kettle bubbled away and we had a hot coffee before crashing around 23.00.
17.5.11 It was pretty cold when we emerged at 6.30 – 3 degrees by the gauge in the X-trail and a small breeze off the ocean (invisible from the camp ground) kept us alert.
Our main target here was, of course, Mallee Whipbird, debatably Australia’s third Whipbird having a distinctly different call from both Western and Eastern, but still included as Western Whipbird on the lists. We had a location from the Birds in Australia 2010 edition which referred to the West Cape road, park after 300 meters, climb the sand dune to the left and look into the hollow where the central bush is a regular singing location. We struggled through the heavy growth to the top of the sand dune and stood for an hour watching and waiting and occasionally playing for the bird – nothing. A couple of Grey Currawongs showed interest in the bush and the occasional Singing Honeyeater popping up now and again kick started our hearts – otherwise nothing, nada, zilch.
We scrambled back down and went to our second location – the track to Cape Spencer, behind the Cable Bay campsite. We parked at the bottom and started walking up the track playing for the bird. A flock of 26 White-fronted Chats flew past downhill as we walked. Just past a foot path to the beach a response – a pair of birds calling from the scrub at the edge of the road and, before we could get bins off our chests, a bird in the road, landing, hopping and returning to the cover - all in an eye blink. Yes!!! – Western (Mallee) Whipbird. Now we just had to see it properly!
2 hours we spent standing on the opposite side of the road watching the two birds flit through the thick undergrowth no more than 10 meters away. We caught glimpses of a tail here, a head there, a back there – talk about skulking! Eventually they flew across the road into the thicker vegetation on the opposite side and moved further away.
We stretched aching muscles and began walking back to the car. A honeyeater type bird crossed the road between us and we both recognised something different from the dozens of New Holland Honeyeaters we had been seeing all morning – it perched up and we managed to get onto it before it flew again – Purple-gaped Honeyeater, our second target bird for Innes!
Returning to the car we drove the rest of the way to the car park at the top of the track and walked to the lighthouse. On the way we had a lovely Tawny-crowned Honeyeater perched up on the left and from the lighthouse Aust Gannets over the ocean, a pair of Sooty Oystercatchers on the rocks below and a Brown Falcon high above. We also recorded White-browed Scrub-wren, Osprey, Pacific Gull, Splendid Fairy-wren, Silvereyes, Welcome Swallows and 3 Rufous Fieldwrens!. . Another birder we had met had suggested that Striated Grasswren was a possibility – we played for it, but only managed to raise the Fieldwren – which was a nice bonus, especially for me, but not the bird we sought.
When we reached the road again I suggested that a visit to the park headquarters for possible info on Malleefowl and a search for a cup of coffee would be a nice idea. The headquarters were closed Monday and Tuesday and today being Tuesday - that wasn’t helpful. Rhino’s Tavern provided the coffee – it wasn’t especially good, but the lady did fill our flask full of hot water on request, which was nice. A House Sparrow surprisingly stuck his head up as we sat on the verandah and discussed our plans for the rest of the day.
West Cape – drive to the car park, walk to the lighthouse. Very windy, more Pacific Gulls, an Aust Kestrel hunting over the cliffs and another 3 Fieldwrens – very good views and photos even! Stu had seen Rufous Fieldwren before – in the interior - and these initially caused some confusion as they were so washed out looking compared to the interior rufous birds.
The information we had was that Malleefowl were ‘common’ in the wooded areas of the park so we tried to find wooded areas – not very successfully - the undergrowth was extremely dense and impenetrable so, apart from a male Red-capped Robin, we didn’t see anything and gave away the effort pretty quickly. Without more local knowledge I think it would be difficult, although several road signs suggest they are crossing in such numbers one needs to drive carefully!
We drove the road to Brown’s Beach and had a look at the beach and headland from the car park. A Pacific Gull and another pair of Sooty Oystercatchers hung out on the rocks. Stu suggested a short walk along the track to Gym Beach – as it was getting late we chose not to do the whole circuit. We had 2 Brush Bronzewings, approx 8 Purple-gaped Honeyeaters – with excellent views – Spiny-cheeked and New Holland Honeyeaters, the only Golden Whistler of the trip, heaps of Red Wattlebirds, Silvereyes , White-browed Scrub-wrens and 1 Dusky Woodswallow. As we returned to the car Stu picked up a high pitched call (I really will have to look into hearing aids…) and soon we had a Southern Scrub Robin bouncing around on his long legs from bush to bush acting like a Scrub Robin should! As we watched him 2 pairs of Aust Shelducks flew overhead!
We drove back to the Cape Spencer road and stood again for some time listening for Whipbirds – to no avail. We wandered the campsite itself, as they have been heard in the immediate vicinity, but again no response. Casually checking the beach I picked up a trio of Hooded Plovers and a pair of Pacific Gulls – and got some keeper shots of both. Darkness fell and we had to give it away. The campsite at Cable Bay looked more ‘friendly’ – and as noted earlier – cheaper! It overlooks Cable Bay which is quite picturesque and with Hooded Plovers and Pacific Gulls running around, Purple-gaped Honeyeaters and Mallee Whipbirds within spitting distance? Why wouldn’t you stay there? It would definitely be my choice next time!
Returning to our campsite a little deflated as a result of our failure to see the Whipbirds in more detail the long, cold, dark evening stretched before us with only the stand-around kettle for entertainment. We managed to make a mixture of hot noodles and cold baked beans that I was assured was ‘really nice’ – but was what it was, hot noodles and cold baked beans….I suggested that maybe a visit to Rhino’s Tavern would at least give us light, probably a little warmth and other humans to relate to – and we could get coffee that tasted like coffee….
Well, we got the light and the warmth and coffee that tasted a bit like coffee and a sticky date pudding that wasn’t too bad, but the human element was somewhat lacking with a lack of enthusiasm or interest that was palatable. It was a bit like watching one of those dysfunctional family sitcoms on TV that you think doesn’t really exist – but you know it does. We only stayed an hour or so and then headed back to our cold tents where I battled with a reluctant zip and then crawled in for a long night which ended at 4.30 when Stu thought he heard rain and suggested we “pack up now before the tents get wet”. Yep – great idea! We did, but we didn’t need to, it never rained, however, dare I say it? It gave us something to do in the early morning before it was dawn, while the stand-around bubbled away. (I never thought I’d need something to do at 4.30 in the morning…)
Back to Cape Spencer for a last desperate throw at the Whipbirds – standing in the pre dawn straining to hear and hearing nothing. I finally managed to drag Stu back towards the car and, as I did, spotted a parrot sitting on top of a bush about 150 meters away – we quickly scoped it before it flew, a Rock Parrot and a lifer for both of us. Not the way I had expected to see one, but happy with the view and the outcome.
We filled up with fuel again just outside the park ($1.49/litre) and headed back up the peninsula for our first stop off at Port Gawler. It was 160 kms before I overtook another car on the road and even when we hit ‘traffic’ on the Adelaide side of the gulf it was still very light and easy going.
Arriving at Port Gawler we took the road that went straight towards the coast and stopped along it to investigate the mangrove bushes for Thornbills – Slender-billed being our target here. We had plenty of Inland Thornbills, a Brown Songlark, 6 Intermediate Egrets, 4 Chestnut Teal and a handful of Aust Pelicans overhead, but no definite Slender-billed. A pair of Thornbills may have been this species, but they flew over a channel and into more distant mangroves - out of reach. We searched the rough scrubby area at the junction of the tracks then drove on out to the actual reserve and looked around there for no better result apart from about 10 Singing Honeyeaters and a late Horsfield’s Bronze Cuckoo. I saw a small thin snake in the sand, but have no idea what it might have been. Ok – so Port Gawler didn’t deliver – let’s try St Kilda.
Hammer back down the road to the main drag, turn right and then hammer down the road to the St Kilda frontage… another hour of listening and checking Superb Fairy-wrens, hordes, it seemed, of White-browed Scrub-wrens, Inland Thornbills, another Brown Songlark, Common Blackbird, Willy Wagtails and Grey Fantails, Crested Pigeons and, on the wetlands behind, Black-winged Stilts, Silver Gulls and Aust Pelicans. We went to the mangrove boardwalk and checked through more scrub-wrens and Thornbills… but it wasn’t to be, Slender-billed Thornbill continued to elude us.
Accept defeat – move on. We had another destination in mind – the Adelaide Hills for Purple-crowned Lorikeet.
So, Tomtom on and a bearing for Belair Park – and we spent the next hour stuck in traffic for no apparent reason – i.e. it was 3.30 pm, there were so few cars we just seemed to be unlucky in the route chosen to cross the city suburbs. By the time we did get to Belair it was 16.00 and starting to cool down. We bailed from the car and hurried onto a track that showed promise – we didn’t have any idea where we might find Lorikeets but figured they’d be heading to roost about now and a roost should be easy to find… We did have loads of Red Wattlebirds and Rainbow Lorikeets and a few nice examples of the Adelaide form of the Crimson Rosella, but no small Lorikeets at all to excite us.
Back at the car we dragged everything out onto the ground and packed our bags for the airport. The gates of the park shut at 17.00 and we made it with 5 minutes to spare, reaching the airport at 17.30 for Stu to check in for his 18.45 flight. I was booked to fly at 20.30 so had some time to hang around after he had gone.
Dropped the car back without any issue, after advising them of the vibrations and wandering cruise control, and had a cup of coffee and some chips before Stu boarded.
Learnings:
Given that it was not the prime time of year I think we did alright. I was disappointed by the lack of Malleefowl and Stu was frustrated with his second unsuccessful attempt for Slender-billed Thornbill, however, we did score some exceptional birds and had a great holiday at a realistic cost. We do need to go back and I look forward to returning to Gluepot, and possibly Innes NP again, at some stage in the future.