Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Gray's Lark |
 Southern Carmine Bee-eater |
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From October 5 to 25 my wife and I travelled through Namibia and Botswana with Rockjumper Tours on a wildlife watching expedition. This was our first trip to Africa and everything, from photographing larks in the desert sand to close encounters with lions and elephants, was great.
Rockjumper was our choice for a tour company because we had heard good things about them from other birders and their website was attractive and well organized. Our guide, Markus Lilje, was excellent company, a great driver and an extremely knowledgeable naturalist. His enthusiasm, energy and skill added immeasurably to the expedition. Our trip was private, just my wife and I. Rockjumper and other companies offer group tours along the same route. Many birders organize their own successful, independent, visits.
Click here for my YouTube Namibia and Botswana wildlife slide show with photos from this trip - Part One
Click here for my YouTube Namibia and Botswana wildlife slide show with photos from this trip - Part Two
Namibia is a large, sparsely inhabited country bordering the Atlantic coast in southwest Africa. Much of the land is arid, ranging from desert to dry savannah and open woodland. Along the Angolan border in the very north there is more water, a higher human population and greater bird diversity.
After an unhappy period of colonial rule and a long, bitter liberation war Namibia became independent in 1990. The place now seems peaceful and well managed, not the chaotic Africa often portrayed by the media. Travelling in it was akin to driving about in rural Canada. All the main and secondary highways are paved, well signed and in good repair. The lesser routes are carefully maintained gravel. Our accommodations were all good and the food was high quality.
Botswana is a land-locked nation in central-southern African. It gained independence in 1966 and today is recognized as one of the continent’s better-organized states and a major eco-tourism destination. We crossed into the country from northeastern Namibia to explore the Okavango River system. The roads and accommodations were good and the areas we visited felt safe and secure. Our tour concluded with a Letaka Safaris fly-in trip to the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta. Letaka’s Grant Reed was our main guide in Moremi and, as with Markus Lilje, his knowledge, enthusiasm and organizational skills made the trip something very special.
Weather – In Namibia the rains come late October or November and continue into February. Toward the end of our October trip thunderclouds would build through the afternoon but it rained just once, an intense overnight storm in Moremi. During the day temperatures reached towards 35º Celsius but we could work past the heat by moving slowly, keeping to the shade or remaining in the vehicle. Nights were cooler, especially in hill country and along the Atlantic coast.
We picked October to visit because it coincides with the end of the dry season and wildlife is concentrated around the few remaining water sources, creating spectacular viewing opportunities. On the downside, this is peak occupancy time for lodges and parks and it is hot and dusty, with much grey, brown and yellow in the landscape and very little green. Some of the more spectacularly feathered residents (Whydahs, Bishops and Widowbirds) are still in drab basic plumage, awaiting the rains. Finally, it is also early for the main wave of European, Asian and African bird migrants; they just started to appear on the last days of our tour.
Health and Safety – Our travel doctor ensured our shots were up to date and prescribed anti-malarials and antibiotics (for stomach upset). Mosquitoes were almost non-existent until we reached the Okavango River in north-eastern Namibia and even there they were few in number. Still, along the river we took our malaria pills (Malarone) and wore premetherin treated long sleeved shirts and full-length pants, standing out amongst the scantily clad tourists and locals. While mosquitoes were not a problem, I did get stung by wasps. Namibian paper wasps are angrier than Canadian ones and do not like people standing near their nests.
Wild animals occasionally kill people in Africa so in the big reserves you must stay in your vehicle except at a few designated sites. This requirement, along with our guides’ understanding of animal behaviour, ensured our safety and still allowed close encounters with wildlife. More conventional concerns were sunburn and heat exhaustion. These were kept at bay by wearing sun hats, sunscreen and drinking lots of water.
Windhoek (Namibia’s capital city) has a reputation as requiring some care with personal security but in going about normal tourist activities (a walk in the central park, shopping at the mall, sleeping in our fenced guesthouse) we encountered no problems. The same applies to the other urban centres we visited (Walvis Bay and Swakopmund in Namibia, and Maun in Botswana). Rural areas seemed very safe, with local residents responding with shyness or amusement to our presence. In these remoter parts Markus, our guide, was comfortable leaving gear in the vehicle while we explored the surrounding terrain on foot.
Clothing and Equipment – We wore shorts, short-sleeved shirts and sandals in dry areas. In mosquito zones we switched to long sleeves, long pants and leather hiking shoes. On the chillier nights we wore light windbreakers and wished we had brought fleeces. We had our own binoculars but Rockjumper provided a scope, tripod, field speaker and an MP3 player loaded with local bird songs and calls. Small headlamps were useful in the remoter camps and powerful flashlights were essential for spotting wildlife at night. This activity has been revolutionized by LED technology; we carried the reliable “LED Lenser” P-7 and P-14 models. The P-7 is very small (just 13 centimetres, 5.25 inches), runs on 4 AAA batteries but produces a focusable 200 lumen beam that picks up the reflective eye shine of night creatures at great distance. The P-14 is slightly larger (20.5 centimetres, 8.5 inches), uses 4 AA batteries and is a bit more powerful.
Photography – We brought 3 cameras (Canon 1DM4 w/1.4 converter/500f4 lens, Canon 7D w/300f2.8, Canon 5DM2 w/24-105) and a carbon tripod fitted with a Wimberley II head. I put the 1D and 500 in my carry-on and had no problem bringing it on the plane even though the bag was well past the maximum weight restriction (although within the required dimensions). The camera gear was in a separate bag within my main carry-on so if challenged I could separate it out and claim I actually had two lighter bags. The 7D and 300 were put in checked baggage, a risky proposition that fortunately worked out okay.
The 300 on the 7D was handholdable, easily to carry and readily accessible for unexpected photo ops. While it was effective for mammals it was not always strong enough for smaller birds. The 500 with the 1.4 converter was powerful on the 1D, but cumbersome and at times too strong for close subjects. Around lodges and on boats I was able to mount the rig on a tripod to good effect. Stabilizing it on our vehicle’s window frame with a beanbag also worked well. Charging batteries was not a problem; even the remoter camps had electricity to tap into. We brought along southern Africa plug adapters (3 fat round prongs) to fit our North American gear.
The first and last hours of daylight were crucial for photography; by mid-morning the landscape was washed out by harsh sunlight and even nearby objects were distorted by heat haze. In addition, thick atmospheric dust often reduced the horizon to a dull grey even if the sky directly overhead was blue. To keep the sensors dust free I kept the cameras in sealed, light nylon bags until needed and I never changed lenses during the trip. Even with all this I managed to obtain images I was happy with. Marcus Lilje and Letaka Safari’s Grant Reed are both experienced camera operators and had many useful photo suggestions (for example, make sure the antelope’s ears are symmetrical and facing you). They were also adept at anticipating animal behaviour and quickly positioning the vehicle for the best shooting angle.
Literature – We carried Sinclair’s “Birds of Southern Africa”, a good guide, well laid-out with clear plates and useful, brief species descriptions. The only idiosyncrasy is that virtually everything is listed as “common”. Our mammal book was Kingdon’s “African Mammals”, backed by the Stuarts’ “Mammals of Southern Africa”. The array of similar birds (for example larks) and mammals (antelopes) was intimidating but by regularly leafing through the guides in the months before the trip we were surprisingly well prepared. Independent birders should secure a copy of SASOL’s “Southern African Birdfinder”. The route is also carefully described in numerous trip reports. To get a sense of the area’s human story I read SWAPO’s “To Be Born A Nation – The Liberation Struggle for Namibia” and “Histories of Namibia” by Leys and Brown. “Conflicting Missions – Havana, Washington and Africa” by Piero Gleijeses provided a useful perspective on southern Africa’s cold war history and Cuba’s important role in it.
Vehicles – We rented a 2-wheel drive, high ground clearance, Nissan X-Trail (small SUV) at the Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek. A big 4X4 truck, while fun, would have exceeded our needs and been uncomfortable and fuel inefficient. Comfort is an important consideration because a lot of time is spent in the vehicle on this route. In Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve we were met at the remote airstrip by a snorkel-equipped, 4X4, canvas-topped, open-sided Landcruiser. Inside the reserve these extra capabilities were needed as we were often confronted by deep sand to traverse and flooded areas to ford.
Accommodations and Food – We requested that Rockjumper book us into high-end places and as a result stayed at a series of beautiful lodges featuring huge, comfortable rooms and great service. Africans of European descent own much of the broader tourism infrastructure; sometimes it felt like we were shuttling between a series of exclusive European hotels. Along the route there are a range of more modest lodges and plenty of camping opportunities. In retrospect we probably did not need the luxury, we were out in the field so much that there was little time to savour it. The food throughout the trip was very good, but in contrast to Asia, the Caribbean and Latin America there was no local cuisine, just western dishes.
Birding in Namibia and Botswana – The route is a good introduction to African birding - featuring a range of habitats and a decent but not overwhelming number of species. At the beginning of our tour I thought a target of 400 was reasonable. Markus, noting our route would miss some particularly bird rich areas, initially indicated that 380 was more realistic.
As first time visitors to Africa we were surprised at the avian diversity in even marginal habitat. Patches of desolate scrub and scattered trees that back home might hold 5 species instead contained 20 or 30 things to look for. The importance of shade was also a novelty. From mid-morning on the smallest shelter provided by brush and fence posts often held birds. In further contrast to Canada, where most migration occurs like clockwork, many African birds engage in complex dispersal patterns based on the unpredictable timing and duration of local or distant rains and the subsequent availability of habitat. Because the impact of rain might not be felt in an area for months or even years, it was difficult to know exactly what to expect. In the end we had ridiculous numbers of some things that tours can struggle with (Burchell’s Courser for example) but came up short in other areas (Ludwig’s Bustard).
The most commonly encountered species (seen on at least 11 of 21 days) were Helmeted Guineafowl, Red-billed Francolin, Egyptian Goose, Grey Heron, Reed Cormorant, White-backed Vulture, Blacksmith Lapwing, African Jacana, Common Greenshank, Ring-necked Dove, Laughing Dove, Namaqua Dove, Grey Go-away-bird, African Palm Swift, Lilac-breasted Roller, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, European Bee-eater, Common Scimitar-bill, African Grey Hornbill, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Red-eyed Bulbul, Black-chested Prinia, Burchell’s Starling, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Red-billed Quelea, Southern Masked Weaver, Blue Waxbill and Golden-breasted Bunting.
The species regularly encountered in the dry country from Windhoek through to the Okavango River, but not beyond, were Pale Chanting Goshawk, Acacia Pied Barbet, Little Swift, Common Fiscal, Sabota Lark, Rock Martin, Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler, Cape Starling, and Dusky Sunbird. The birds featuring prominently only in the latter half of our expedition (the Okavango River system) were Squacco Heron, Red-eyed Dove, Pied Kingfisher, Little Bee-eater, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, African Paradise Flycatcher, Dark-capped Bulbul, Meve’s Starling and Violet-breasted Starling.
Target Species - Namibia’s arid habitat creeps into Angola and South Africa so it has very few true endemics (birds that occur in the country and nowhere else). Still, the tour route offers the best (or only) opportunity to see Hartlaub’s Francolin, Rueppell’s Korhaan, Burchell’s Courser, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Bradfield’s Hornbill, Rosy-faced Lovebird, Rueppell’s Parrot, Bradfield’s Swift, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, Herero Chat, White-tailed Shrike, Rockrunner, Bare-cheeked Babbler, Dune Lark, Gray’s Lark, Carp’s Black Tit and Luapula Cisticola.
The Okavango River system is a good place to find White-backed Night Heron, Lesser Jacana and Pel’s Fishing Owl, wide ranging but difficult birds. The Okavango is also home to the localized Slaty Heron. Finally, the route holds many southern African endemics (species confined to South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and, in part, Mozambique).
Mammals – After a lifetime of seeing lions, elephants and giraffes in books and on television, the trip finally offered the chance to see them in the wild. Namibia’s Etosha National Park and the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana are two of the world’s finest game viewing locations. The quantity and quality of sightings was overwhelming. In addition to large mammals, we also spent time searching for smaller game. Careful work, including spotlighting at night, produced African Civet, Small-spotted Genet, Blotched Genet, Springhare, Lesser Bushbaby, Ratel, African Wild Cat, Aardwolf, Cape Fox and Bat-eared Fox. We even devoted time to tracking down the elusive Namib Dune Gerbil. An independent, primarily birding trip should yield at least 30 mammals on the route. More concentrated effort will produce totals in the low to mid 40’s. Our target was an optimistic 50.
Reptiles and Amphibians – We rounded out our activity by occasionally lifting rocks and checking ponds for geckos, lizards, snakes, frogs, toads and turtles. We ended up with 28 species, including memorable encounters with Giant Ground Gecko and Black-necked Spitting Cobra.
Itinerary – Our initial letter to Rockjumper indicated interest in a three-week custom tour of Namibia and stated that a relaxed and enjoyable time was more important than running up large lists. Rockjumper quickly produced a draft itinerary (essentially a modified version of their standard birding trail through the area) that we accepted without amendment. When we got to Africa the notion of a slow-paced, non-listing trip disappeared in the face of so much to see. Impressed by our enthusiasm after a few days on the ground, Markus suggested that 400 birds, while tricky, was possible.
Our journey would begin in central Namibia at Windhoek, the capital city, with visits to Avis Dam and the Daan Viljoen Game Reserve, examples of the local arid environment. From Windhoek we would proceed 275 kilometres west to Walvis Bay on the Atlantic coast. For three nights Walvis would be our base to investigate the area’s rich estuary and offshore waters and mount forays inland to Namib-Naukluft National Park.
After Walvis we would head 150 kilometers northeast for a morning of birding at the Spitzkoppe, an isolated peak rising spectacularly out of the surrounding plain. Next stop - two nights in the nearby Erongo Mountains. From the Erongos we would drive northeast roughly 350 kilometers to Etosha National Park for a five night stay split between the Okaukuejo and Halali camps inside the Park and the Mushara Lodge just outside its eastern gate.
From Etosha we would journey north to the Okavango River, the central geographic feature for the remainder of the trip. The Okavango system consists of three parts. The first is the river proper, which runs west to east along the Angola-Namibia border between relatively contained banks. The second is the Okavango Panhandle. Here the flow angles south into Botswana and begins to meander through Papyrus marsh. Last is the inland Okavango Delta where the river spills out across a vast, flat plain. The delta is protected in part by the Moremi Game Reserve and it is here that we would end our tour with a fly-in visit to a mobile safari camp.
Our route missed two areas visited by birders. We did not enter the Caprivi Strip, a strange anomaly of colonialism that extends Namibia in a narrow band all the way to Zambia. This extension offers an extra 20 or so birds in its broadleaf forest and the opportunity to see spectacular Victoria Falls. In place of the Caprivi we headed to Moremi and its less diverse Acacia and Mopane woodlands. We also skipped northwestern Namibia where particularly keen birders search for a handful of additional species. In retrospect there is little we would change about the plan.
Chronology
October 4 – Montreal to Amsterdam to Johannesburg, South Africa - Our 11-hour KLM flight from Amsterdam arrived at Oliver Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg at 9:30pm. We asked a policeman at an information kiosk about a taxi to our hotel. He called over a friendly and professional driver who took us in an unmarked cab to the nearby Birchwood. Rockjumper suggested this hotel because its fenced gardens hold a fair number of birds.
October 5 – Johannesburg to Windhoek, Namibia – We left the pleasant but institutional Birchwood at first light, very frustrating as the grounds were crowded with birds. The only things identified before the airport shuttle whisked us off were Grey-headed Gull and Hadada Ibis. We met our Rockjumper guide Marcus Lilje at check-in and after a two and a half hour flight we set down in Windhoek around noon. Quickly clearing customs, we retrieved our bags, picked up our rental vehicle and headed to town. Our first Namibian birds were a pair of Rock Martin nesting on the airport terminal.
In Windhoek we settled into the pleasant and secure Palmquell guesthouse. After cleaning up, organizing gear and checking the garden (Cardinal Woodpecker, White-backed Mousebird, Blue Waxbill) we drove to the shopping district. Water and snacks were purchased for the trip at an indistinguishable-from-Canadian super market. Then we visited the historic Christuskirche (Christ Church) on Fidel Castro Street; Bradfield’s Swifts swirled overhead. Crossing the road, we strolled through nearby Parliament Gardens and saw two Lesser Honeyguides.
At 3pm we set off for the Avis Dam on the outskirts of town. This was our first real birding in Africa and the lifers came quickly in the dry, brushy habitat. I asked Markus not to call things out unless there was some particular urgency and he patiently waited while I stumbled through the rush of new species. From the secure parking lot (the location is a popular dog-walking spot) we crossed the large concrete dam and continued on a well-marked trail along the base of a low rocky hill. Egyptian Goose and Blacksmith Lapwing were at the water’s edge. Rock Hyrax, Mountain Wheatear and Short-toed Rockthrush were beside the path. Then Markus signaled the Rockrunner’s warbling song and we quickly saw this major Namibian target. Playback was not necessary. From the dam we returned to our guesthouse, our first day over.
October 6 – Windhoek to Walvis Bay - After an early and full breakfast we said good-bye to the Palmquell and set out for the Daan Viljoen Game Reserve, a 40km² park located about 20 kilometres west of Windhoek. The reserve protects an area of low rolling hills and we saw a good number of dry country birds including Lilac-breasted Roller, Violet-eared Waxbill and Black-chested Prinia, as well as an impressive selection of mammals. Along the seven kilometre driving route we had Blue Wildebeest, Kudu, Oryx (Gemsbok), Steenbok, Springbok, Red Hartebeest, Eland and our trip’s only Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra. White-tailed Shrike, another key Namibia target, was the avian highlight.
As with other Namibian parks, Daan Viljoen is surrounded by a high fence, an incongruous sight from a Canadian perspective. The animals, however, are not considered captive. Most enclosed spaces in southern Africa, whether on private or public land, contain the animals present when the barriers were set. As human populations grow and natural habitats succumb to development these areas may someday become de facto zoos, but that situation has not yet arrived.
After Daan Viljoen we visited the Windhoek sewage works, picking up Pearl-breasted Swallow on the pump station’s yellow railings and a range of wetland species in the overgrown settling ponds. Then it was off to Walvis Bay on the Atlantic coast. We took the B2, stopping in Okahandja around noon for lunch at the coffee shop beside the Shell station, a clean and friendly place. “Hello, how are you?” is the standard Namibian greeting. The appropriate response is not an abrupt “Good” but instead a reciprocating “Good. How are you?” People seemed a bit taken aback if you did not also inquire after their wellbeing.
From Okahandja the B2 angles west to Usakos where we detoured north on the D1935. Nine kilometers from town this road crosses the dry Khan River and its narrow strip of accompanying open woodland. Every few years the river floods, sustaining the habitat. To the musical sound of distant livestock bells, we spent an hour or so amongst the huge trees that line the empty watercourse, walking slowly in the soft sand and hot breeze. Sightings in this special place included Damara Hornbill, Rosy-faced Lovebird and Carp’s Tit.
Returning to the B2 we continued west through the semi-desert to the coast. Pale Chanting Goshawks perched at regular intervals on roadside transmission poles. A second glance revealed one to be a Lanner Falcon. We arrived in Walvis Bay in the early evening and settled in at the bright yellow, Lagoon Lodge on the main waterfront promenade. Thousands of water birds were visible from our balcony and the range-restricted Orange River White-eye was a regular visitor to the front yard.
October 7 to 9 – Walvis Bay and inland to Namib-Naukluft National Park
The Lagoon – Walvis Bay is one of the few breaks along the continent’s southern Atlantic coast. This geography supports the largest number of waterbirds of any wetland in southern Africa, serving as both a dry season refuge for African species and a non-breeding site for European migrants. To explore the area we began our day with a walk along the waterfront promenade. In contrast to the dry warmth and sun of the interior, the coast was damp, cool and grey. Masses of small fish had entered the lagoon and were being corralled against the shore by thousands of Cape Cormorant. Joining the frenzy were Great White Pelican, Hartlaub’s and Kelp Gull, a variety of terns, Little Egret and even a few leaping South African Fur Seal. In the distance, near distance and at our feet uncountable numbers of Greater Flamingo fed, flew or just stood around. The mudflats teemed with smaller waders including localized specialties Chestnut-banded and White-fronted Plover as well as long-range migrants such as Curlew Sandpiper. By scanning the flats we quickly picked up two targets sitting at the water’s edge – African Oystercatcher and Damara Tern.
Boat Cruise – At 9am we left for the office of Mola Mola, a company offering local boat trips. Lining up with about 50 other tourists we proceeded as directed to their dock and waited as a stream of boats pulled in to drop off and pick up passengers. Our turn came and we set off with a small group for a three-hour cruise of the estuary and ocean. Nick Viljoen was our jovial skipper and the first event was pelican feeding. Nick whistled and the birds flew to the moving boat for a handout of fish. Telephotos were too big for this action, smaller landscape lenses worked better to capture the huge birds flying alongside us. Next came the Fur Seals, with named individuals hopping on board for some fish and a pat on the head - not exactly a pristine natural history experience, but still fun.
After this entertainment we headed out deeper into the estuary, past oyster beds and cormorant platforms (erected to capture their droppings to use as fertilizer). Here the birding was more serious, with two African Penguin appearing directly off the bow and Cape Gannets flying overhead. An inspection of an abandoned wharf revealed two Crowned Cormorant. The long sand beach held more African Oystercatchers and a crowded Fur Seal colony. As we left the estuary for the open ocean Black-chinned Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters began to zip by and an actual Mola (Ocean Sunfish) made an appearance amongst a crowd of boats. As the sun broke through the clouds, champagne, oysters and fish cakes were brought out and enjoyed. Then, just as we turned for home, a small group of Heaviside’s Dolphin approached the boat, providing excellent views. Most of the sightings on the water are duplicable from shore with a telescope, but the cruise is a pleasant way to obtain surer and closer encounters.
Inland for Gray’s Lark – Mid-afternoon we drove east on the C14 to Namib-Naukluft National Park, at 50,000 km² the largest reserve in Africa. Past the towering coastal dunes and an empty stretch of sand, gravel and rock we encountered the first signs of life; small, dark shrubs spaced at regular intervals across the desert. Eventually tiny clumps of grass and stunted brush began to appear. Upon reaching this habitat we parked and set out in line abreast across the sand to search for Gray’s Lark. The limited range of this small pale bird, and its ability to survive in a harsh, waterless environment, make it a particular target for birders. After a time we caught a fleeting glimpse of distant motion and quickly headed towards it. We soon found a small group of larks moving slowly across the desolate landscape. By placing ourselves in their line of travel, the subtly beautiful birds walked at, around and almost over us.
Night Drive in the Namib – From Markus’s Gray’s Lark spot we continued east across the flat plain. Ostriches and Springbok antelopes appeared, first as distant shapes shimmering in the heat haze, then right beside the road. Areas of pale yellow grass began to take hold and we crossed a sparse line of trees along a dry watercourse. An Oryx posed on a ridge as we pushed past a series of broken rocky hills. At twilight we reached the austere Kuiseb Canyon, our farthest point of travel.
Retracing our route we headed back in the dark towards Walvis Bay, sweeping the roadside for eyeshine with our lights. We saw Black-backed Jackals and then the first of many Cape Hares, revealed by the red glow of their eyes. A quick flickering of green and the brief glimpse of vertical stripes signaled something different. Frantic and semi-coherent, I relayed the sighting to Markus who placed the vehicle into reverse. We backed up beside a pair of Aardwolves at a den, a rarely seen animal that we were able to approach and closely study. Very exciting. Continuing on, more green eyeshine lead us to a single Bat-eared Fox trotting across the night. This species, like the Aardwolf, is a termite-eating specialist and uses its huge ears to locate food. Soon we found more Bat-eared Foxes, including a very cooperative couple that lingered at the roadside. Our last event was a spectacular Giant Ground Gecko on the road. Exhausted but elated by an amazing day, we rolled into Walvis at 10PM, obtaining food at a gas station before retiring to our lodge.
Rooibank for Dune Lark - Before dawn on October 8 we headed inland on the C14 through thick coastal fog. Just past the dune wall we turned south to Rooibank and an area of semi-vegetated sand that holds another special bird – the endemic Dune Lark. Parking by the small settlement, we walked into the mist and low dunes and soon found our target as it ran up, down and around the reddish waves of sand. Other sightings included Ashy Tit and Bokmakierie. Along our walking route we also encountered a number of green, leafless thorn thickets connected to each other by a lacework of tiny rodent tracks. We returned to the area after sunset and found and photographed the track maker – Namib Dune Gerbil.
Salt and Sewage Works – After our dawn visit to Rooibank we returned to the coast to bird the Walvis Bay salt works – a series of huge evaporating ponds. The salt works, and Walvis more generally, have an industrial feel, with ocean going ships anchored offshore and cranes, warehouses, transmission lines and communication towers dotting the inland horizon. The birding at the ponds is still phenomenal and we spent several hours viewing thousands of waders, including a group of 50 Lesser Flamingos. With few lifers present we took a fairly relaxed approach, enjoying the spectacle without combing through every last bird. Returning to Walvis Bay proper we caught a scent familiar to all birders and followed it to the town’s sewage works off Gertrude Rimbuka Street. The settling ponds held a variety of ducks including Cape, Red-billed and Hottentot Teal and our only Cape Shoveler of the trip.
October 9 – Walvis to the Spitzkoppe and the Erongo Mountains – The Spitzkoppe, an isolated rock outcrop rising spectacularly from the surrounding plain, is about 100 kilometres inland from the coast (perhaps 150 by road from Walvis). To reach it at dawn (key to seeing Herero Chat, another Namibian specialty) we left Walvis at 5am on the B2. In the half-light the inselberg was visible from a great distance and on our approach we watched as it shifted from grey to orange in the rising sun. A small community-run reserve protects the area and we passed the as yet unattended gate and continued on to the base of the rock (we paid the entrance fee on the way out). Before parking we saw two very close Klipspringer; a fascinating antelope specially adapted to life in rocky, vertical terrain. A half hour search of the dry brush resulted in excellent views of Herero Chat. We continued our hike, enjoying close study of African Hawk Eagle, Monteiro’s Hornbill and our only Layard’s Tit-Babbler of the trip. Markus then found a Black-necked Spitting Cobra and we watched it for a long time as it hunted through a low tree. The opportunity to explore the terrain on foot was very satisfying and something we missed in the big game parks to the north.
From the Spitzkoppe we continued east to the Erongo Mountains, carefully surveying the shade provided by shrubs, fence posts and transmission poles. These features sheltered Stark’s, Karoo Long-billed, Spike-heeled and Sabota Lark. At Karibib we left the B2 and turned north on the C33. The C33 crosses the Khan River 19 kilometers from the intersection, giving us another chance to explore the dry river. Pulling off at an impressive concrete bridge we set out on foot to find two additional and sometimes difficult target species – Violet Wood-Hoopoe and Ruppell’s Parrot. Immediately a pair of the hoopoes began calling and displaying in a tree beside the bridge. Then a screeching sound led us to a close but jumpy Ruppell’s Parrot. Within 15 minutes we were back in the vehicle and on our way. Late afternoon we reached our destination, the Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
October 10 – Erongo Mountains – The Erongo Wilderness Lodge consists of a main restaurant/pool area and a series of spacious tents built on platforms attached to the mountainside. Each tent has a large front porch and, at the back end, a tiled and luxuriously appointed bathroom. The lodge is famous for its comfort, but also for bird watching and bird photography. Every morning birdseed is placed just below the open-air restaurant and a host of species gathers to feed, oblivious to human activity.
At 6:30am on the morning of the tenth we assembled at the restaurant with our cameras, ready to capture the action – only to encounter the first (and last) crisis of the trip – the lodge had run out of birdseed. Just a few birds were visible, picking forlornly at the dirt. Reacting quickly to this potential disaster we crumbled bread and surreptitiously tossed it, and a bowl of dry granola, onto the feeding area. Within minutes birds were swarming around us and we enjoyed some of the best photography of the trip, with Speckled Pigeon, Laughing Dove, Grey Hornbill, Cape Starling, Pale-winged Starling, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Great Sparrow, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Southern Masked Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia and Cape Bunting coming in to perch and pose. There were also extremely cooperative Short-toed Rock Thrush and Familiar Chat in the area. The interruption in food supply did mean that a coveted Namibian specialty – Hartlaub’s Spurfowl – was no longer attending regularly at the lodge. We waited until 8:30 but it did not show up. To see it might now require work - hiking at dawn and hoping to encounter distant birds calling from the surrounding hills.
After breakfast we followed a mildly challenging trail up to a hilltop overlook. On the climb we had excellent views of Rockrunner, Pririt Batis and Ashy Tit. From the top we watched a pair of impressive Verreaux’s Eagle soaring in the near distance. Rock Hyrax, the eagle’s main prey, are common around the lodge and make for fascinating study in their own right. After lunch we took some down time and resumed birding in the late afternoon. For dinner we reserved a window table to ensure we saw the Cape Porcupines that hustle quickly by the lodge on their nocturnal forays. In addition to a dining delay caused by Porcupines, a photogenic Freckled Nightjar calling loudly nearby also interrupted us. After dinner we walked out the entrance road to the lodge gate and in the cool night saw a big tom African Wild Cat as well as Velvety Thick-toed and Bibron's Thick-toed Gecko.
October 11 – Erongo Mountains, Tandala Ridge and on to Etosha – Rather than search the countryside at dawn for Hartlaub’s Spurfowl we elected to hit the restaurant at first light to photograph birds. At 6:30am, as we walked up the path to the dining area, Markus came bounding down the steps with important news – the Spurfowls were back! We raced up to the restaurant to the sight of four of the birds at our feet. We spent the next three hours photographing them and the other assembled species. Having cooperative subjects, beautiful light, strategically placed perches, smooth backgrounds, the camera on a tripod, and the time to fiddle with settings was a wonderful luxury compared to the usual birding “run and gun” photo ops.
Happy, we left the lodge mid-morning and drove north on the C33, cut cross-country on a secondary road to Outjo and then picked up the C38 for the final approach to Etosha National Park. The C38 was productive, with 22 Purple Rollers lining the highway and our only Pygmy Falcons (two perched on transmission poles) of the trip. Just before reaching the park we swung west on the D2695 towards the Tandala Ridge Bed and Breakfast. Our target along the road was Bare-cheeked Babbler, a tricky Namibian near endemic. We pulled into the B&B, hoping to have lunch. Only a caretaker was present so after a brief look around the parking area we left – having seen the Babbler and the tour’s only Chestnut Weavers. Tandala Ridge had a nice feel about it and appeared a pleasant place to stay.
Mid-afternoon we crossed the fence into Etosha at Andersson's Gate and headed to the nearby Okaukuejo (Oh-kah-kway-oh, rhymes with Galileo) Camp. After registering for our rooms we set off on a game drive in the direction of the Gemsbokvlakte Waterhole. Markus, who had guided for six years in South Africa’s famous Krueger National Park, spotted a group of lions almost a kilometre away resting at the edge of a brush line. Despite the great distance, we watched them intently, thrilled at our first contact with this species. Markus indicated the animals would soon be on the move towards water and we would be able to intercept them.
Driving to a side track, we parked and waited. After 15 minutes the pride emerged from tall grass. Strung out in a widely spaced line, they headed toward us - striding purposefully across the savannah, laying in mock ambush of one another and wrestling playfully with two tiny cubs. There were 14 animals in the group, including two maned males. The procession took about ten minutes to file by, passing at closest contact perhaps five metres from our vehicle. We headed quickly to the Gemsbokvlakte Waterhole and again parked on the lions’ estimated line of travel. The pride re-emerged in the distance and brushed by us, oblivious to the vehicle and providing an incredible introduction to Etosha.
October 12 to 15 – Etosha National Park is in north central Namibia and covers 22,000 km² of dry lakebed, sand, broken white rock, sparse savannah and open Acacia and Mopane woodland. Superlatives such as “Africa’s finest gamepark” are often applied to it.
Camps - Several days are needed to properly explore Etosha. Conveniently, three camps - Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni – are placed west to east along the main road. These bustling centres are enclosed within high fences and feature a range of services, including gas stations, shops, information kiosks, registration offices, restaurants, chalets and tenting grounds. Grumbling about the quality of the camps seems to be an African tradition, but we thought they were fine. Our rooms were clean and comfortable and the perfectly nice food is served buffet style in a large dining hall. The fresh grilled game (Kudu, Springbok, Impala) was delicious.
Each location has its own distinct look and feel. Okaukuejo (Oh-kah-kway-oh) is in dry, flat country and its main waterhole is particularly productive, sometimes hosting hundreds of animals at a time. Halali is set in Mopane woodland amidst slightly hilly terrain. Its treed grounds hold a variety of birds and are a good place to search for day-roosting owls. Towards the east we visited, but did not overnight at, Namutoni, a restored colonial fort bordering on a small but luxuriant wetland. Our base for exploring east Etosha was the Mushara Lodge just outside the Von Lindequist Gate.
Waterholes – Etosha is famed for its waterholes; a diverse array of sites that might be any combination of permanent or seasonal, naturally occurring or artificial, maintained by rains or kept full by pumps. In addition to those scattered across the park, each camp has one as well, clearly visible just outside the fence by day and lit by the soft orange glow of giant floodlights at night. The camp waterholes feature covered, amphitheatre seating and are usually watched by large, silent and respectful crowds. In contrast, we often had the more remote waterholes to ourselves, or shared them with just one or two other vehicles. There was always some activity at water but the best times seemed to be mid-evening and early morning.
Driving – You cannot hike in Etosha so the way to explore it is by vehicle; day trips are fine but independent night excursions are not permitted, nor is off-road driving. We would begin each day at first light, lining up with other vehicles and heading out the camp gate as soon as it opened. The park roads are gravel and dusty but well maintained and do not require a 4X4. We did get one flat, an unrepairable puncture. The Okaukuejo service station sent the rim south to Outjo to be fitted with a new tire – which was delivered to us several days later at the Halali Camp. Having a guide in Etosha, while not necessary, was very nice. In addition to his game and bird finding ability, Markus’s familiarity with the area ensured each day’s route would efficiently explore the widest possible selection of habitats and waterholes.
Sightings – We spent five days in the Etosha area, accumulating too many experiences to recount. The general memories are of pale blue sky, spiraling dust devils, scattered white rocks, fields of yellow grass, dry leafless trees, clouds of birds and roaming Zebras, antelopes and Lions. Elephants were a constant presence too and our Etosha visit closed out with them the same way it began with Lions. As we watched a large group drink, bath and socialize at an eastern waterhole they abruptly decide to leave, passing just a few metres from our vehicle. The last one paused, flared its ears and charged towards us. Markus, with his hand on the ignition and ready to move, had to remind me to keep taking pictures. The elephant backed off at the last second. On the smaller side, pairs of Cape and Bat-eared Fox, both about in daylight, were great sightings, as was a Ratel (Honey Badger) on an organized night drive from the Okaukuejo camp. Standout birds included Ostrich, Secretary Bird and Kori Bustard. Double-banded Courser was a beautiful signature species, perfectly coloured for the broken jumble of white Etosha rock.
October 16 – Mushara Lodge to Rundu and the Okavango River – Our base to explore eastern Etosha was the luxurious Mushara Lodge, located just outside the park gate. Its watered grounds were filled with birds, including intrusive Black-faced Babblers, as well as friendly Warthogs and various antelopes. A brief nightwalk produced a beautiful Small-spotted Genet and an amazing leaping Lesser Bushbaby.
On the 16th we left the lodge and picked up the B1 to Tsumeb, the C42 to Grootfontein and then the B8 northeast to Rundu. The B8 passes through broadleaf forest, an important new habitat type for the trip. We explored this terrain by stopping periodically along the road, leaving the vehicle under a shade tree, and taking brief forays into the open woods. A side track leading to a communication tower was particularly productive, giving us Wood Pipit, Rufous-bellied Tit and Cape Penduline Tit. As we headed northeast we began to encounter neat roadside compounds - woven walls of grass and branches containing several thatch houses. The closer we approached the Okavango River the more people we saw, a sharp contrast to the barely inhabited country we had passed through to date.
We stopped along the B8 at the Ncumcara Community Forest Craft Centre and purchased a dozen small wooden hippos – gifts to take home. The carvings were sold under the Hambera trademark, a brand promoted by the Community Forestry in North-Eastern Namibia Project. The project assists villages in establishing and protecting their own sustainable forests, an important initiative as the woodland along the B8 is heavily exploited.
Early afternoon we pulled into Rundu on the Okavango River. On the north side of town a secondary highway parallels the B8 and just east on this road are the local sewage works, prominently visible on Google Earth. The ponds by the road were fairly open and filled with ducks. Those off a lower side track to the east and behind an earthen berm were overgrown with vegetation. They held Little Bittern, Common and Lesser Moorhen, Lesser Jacana, Painted Snipe and two Warblers - Lesser Swamp and African Reed. A cooperative African Crake was in the grassy plain by the berm and the out-lying brush held both Senegal and Coppery-tailed Coucal. After slowing during our stay in Etosha, the number of new birds was climbing again.
From the ponds we followed a dry track down to the Okavango River and watched a stream of people cross back and forth from Angola in large mokoros - wooden dugout canoes. There were safety concerns in the Rundu area some years back, but locals informed us that the current situation was good. The only “problem” we encountered was a group of laughing children striking various hip-hop dance poses who moved on only after I pretended to take pictures of them. Leaving the ponds, we drove to the nearby Kaisosi Lodge, a nice traveler’s rest on the Okavango River. We birded the grounds in the late afternoon, picking up more new species: Red-eyed Dove, Mourning Collared Dove, African Yellow White-eye, Violet-backed Starling (stunning) and Kurrichane Thrush. Brief night work out the entrance road yielded Barn Owl at the gate and calling, spot-lit Fiery-necked and Square-tailed Nightjar.
October 17 – Rundu to the Mahango Game Reserve – From Kaisosi Lodge we continued east on the B8, stopping regularly to check for birds. Species seen included several range-restricted Bradfield’s Hornbill and a group of Retz’s Helmetshrike. Exposed boulders in a set of rapids on the Okavango near Divundu produced telescope views of another target - Rock Pratincole.
At Divundu we turned south off the B8 and soon reached the luxurious Divava Lodge on the banks of the Okavango. The property’s narrow strip of riparian forest held Black-collared Barbet, White-browed Robin Chat and Brown Firefinch. From the restaurant we saw additional Rock Pratincole as well as African Pied Wagtail, Crocodile and Hippopotamus. After lunch and a brief rest we headed south 15 kilometres to the Mahango Game Reserve.
Mahango is a small (300 km²) but picturesque park on the Botswana border, separated from the much larger Caprivi Game Reserve by the Okavango River. Two loops break off Mahango’s main road; one heads east to an open, grassy flood plain. This new habitat was packed with Coconiiformes - Yellow-billed Stork, African Openbill, Sacred Ibis and African Spoonbill as well as Striated, Squacco, Rufous-bellied, Grey, Goliath and Purple Herons and Great, Intermediate, Slaty, Cattle, and Little Egrets. African Skimmer and Little and Southern Carmine Bee-eater were also present. Additions to the mammal list included Lechwe, Tsessebe and Reedbuck antelopes, African Buffalo and our first Vervet Monkeys. The other loop (nominally restricted to 4X4s) turns west, inland to more familiar dry, open forest. Here we had Roan and Sable Antelope, rare and beautiful mammals.
October 18 to 20 – The Okavango Panhandle – We left Divava at dawn, looped again through Mahango and exited at its southern gate, which is also the Namibia-Botswana border post. The usual formalities were briefly and politely performed and we were on our way in a new country. Proceeding south 20 kilometres or so on the A35, we passed Shakawe and turned east on the sideroad to Drotsky’s Cabins. The Cabins are in the Okavango Panhandle, a roughly 70 kilometre marsh-lined and bird rich stretch of the river that begins at the Botswana border and ends at the inland delta. In the trip’s planning stages the idea was to immediately catch a boat downstream to Xaro Lodge, but Xaro was full for the first night so we pre-booked into Drotsky’s instead. Upon arrival we were upgraded to nearby Lawdons Lodge.
We spent the afternoon and evening of the 18th birding between Drotsky’s and Lawdons. Malachite, Giant and Pied Kingfishers and Wire-tailed Swallow were common along the river. In the scrub around Lawdons we tracked down an Orange-breasted Bushshrike and an equally beautiful Grey-headed Kingfisher, a newly arrived intra-African migrant. Yellow-bellied Greenbul and Terrestrial Brownbul were easy to find by Drotsky’s, where the more mature riparian woodland also produced a daytime sighting of Bushbuck and, at night, a Lesser Bushbaby. At night we also called in an African Wood Owl at the Lawdons watertower.
On the 19th we headed eight kilometres down river by boat to Xaro Lodge. The correct pronunciation of this place is “click-arrow”, the click being the local language’s sharply abbreviated consonant cluster. The best I could do was “cairo” or sometimes “zarrow”. At any rate, the lodge is wonderful, recognized as one of the world’s top bird photography sites. After checking out our platform-mounted, glass-fronted, en suite-bathroomed tent, we wandered the grounds, birding and taking pictures. Cooperative Southern Carmine and White-fronted Bee-eaters were nesting in the river’s cut bank. The lodge owner, Donovan, had a guide to show us the roosting site of Pel’s Fishing Owl. A ten-minute stroll produced this coveted species. In the late afternoon we hiked a trail along the waterfront and back into dry open forest – producing African Green Pigeon, a migrant Spotted Flycatcher and our only African Barred Owlet of the trip. The day concluded with an enjoyable dinner where we were joined by a group of friendly South Africans carrying big telephoto lenses and lap top computers. South Africa, relative to population size, is producing an inordinately large number of skilled birders and nature photographers.
On the morning of the 20th we set out down river by boat with Salvation, our guide. At this time of year the Okavango’s water levels drop, forcing huge shoals of catfish out of the floodplains and into the main channel, where they corral smaller fish up against sand bars and the Papyrus’s edge. These "barbel runs" attract a multitude of birds to feed on the panicked prey. We witnessed one frenzy in which catfish-fleeing minnows desperately leapt out of the water onto dry land, only to be nailed by a long line of herons and egrets. These birds roost among the Papyrus and as Salvation piloted the boat through a series of back channels we passed uncountable hundreds of storks, herons, egrets and kingfishers. African Skimmers were also along the river and African Marsh Harriers patrolled the reeds. On Salvation’s signal an African Fish-Eagle swept in to catch a fish tossed to it.
After lunch we headed up river, checking several White-backed Night-Heron day roosts before meeting with success. Another known location for Pel’s Fishing Owl (an army base along the river) produced a second sighting of that bird. Our farthest point of upstream travel, a lilypad choked side channel, held cooperative African and Lesser Jacanas and, in some nearby trees, a Broad-billed Roller. On the return we stopped at a riverside property, climbed a set of stairs through a Carmine Bee-eater colony, and blazed away for an hour or so at the stunning birds.
October 21 to 24 – Moremi – Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve covers some 4,800 km2 of the eastern section of the Okavango Delta, protecting Mopane and Acacia woodland, floodplains, lagoons and winding river channels. We were privileged to end an already incredible tour with a fly-in visit to a mobile camp in the heart of the reserve. To arrange the adventure, Rockjumper contracted with Letaka Safaris.
To reach Moremi we left Xaro by boat early on the 21st, returned to our vehicle at Drotsky’s and drove roughly 300 kilometers south and east to Maun on the A35 and A3. Roadside sightings included more Bradfield’s Hornbill and several Yellow-billed Kite. Maun is a bustling frontier town, expanding rapidly to serve the rising eco-tourism market. After dining at Nandos, an indigenous African fast food outlet, we checked in at Macks Air Charters just opposite the airport. The small plane that would take us into Moremi had limited room for cargo so we separated out essential gear and, leaving most of our baggage behind at the office, walked across to the airport. Quickly clearing security we exited the terminal and strode past a long line of Cessnas on the hot runway. The young pilot of our particular plane provided a short safety briefing and we were on our way.
Maun fell behind and we were soon over cattle-ranching country. The ground was parched; a large brush fire sent up huge plumes of smoke into the sky. Then slivers of green appeared on the brown and yellow earth, the first appendages of the Okavango Delta. As our craft bounced gently in the rising thermals we began to see signs of wildlife - game trails cutting across the landscape. Then we saw a Giraffe, a small group of Elephant and at the edge of a pond, a mother and baby Hippo. Sensing our interest, the pilot banked left and right to optimize viewing. A pair of Marabou Stork glided rapidly by below. Soon there were Elephants at all points to the horizon, bathing, pulling at trees and standing around. After half an hour we set down on a dirt airstrip, the stall warning blaring in sharp crosswinds.
Grant Reed, a tall, blond chap and co-owner of Letaka Safaris, was there to meet us. After a quick hello we boarded his open-backed Landcruiser and set off on a dirt track for our camp, some two and a half hours away. Grant is a great guide, with deep knowledge of animal behaviour, excellent ID skills and the ability to digress on Gecko taxonomy or the Hippo’s digestive system. He is also good company, providing gripping campfire yarns of deadly, near deadly, and just painful encounters with Lions, Elephants, Crocodiles and poisonous snakes. Letaka hosts visiting royals, trains local guides and provides logistics for international television productions. It is easy to understand why Rockjumper has a relationship with the outfit. Together with Markus we had an unstoppable Moremi team and the wildlife viewing experience was again overwhelming.
Our camp was in Xini Lediba, a remote part of the park selected to ensure there were no other people for many kilometres around. For shelter we had a large, green military-style tent with two sleeping cots, a covered vestibule in front and an enclosed area off the back with a hanging steel canister shower and a newly dug pit toilet. We dined on a tablecloth by candlelight under an open-sided tent; the fine cuisine presented on china and prepared by the cook Jackson and his crew of two. At night the area was lit by a series of kerosene lanterns and a small campfire; indescribably idyllic.
Being new to Africa our only point of comparison for Moremi was Etosha. In contrast to that great Namibian park, Moremi, though large, seemed more intimate with a less austere and more diverse landscape. One moment we might be in thick grey Mopane woodland, the next out onto dry yellow savannah, then skirting the green edge of flood plain pond before burying the front of the vehicle in a river ford and emerging triumphant on the far side. With so much water present, game was less concentrated. A steady stream of smaller bands replaced Etosha’s large herds.
Upon arrival at our camp we sat down with Grant and reviewed our most-wanted list, indicating a particular interest in some of the smaller mammals we were still missing. Birdwise, we entered the reserve with 375 species, well short of our goal of 400 and without a lot of easy things left to see.
During the day we drove, setting off at dawn and not returning to camp until just before sunset. We covered hundreds of kilometre in our relatively brief time in Moremi, criss-crossing the terrain to search specific sites for the remaining available species. The work paid off; new sightings included African Pygmy-Goose, Yellow-billed Duck, Saddle-billed Stork, Dickinson’s Kestrel, Black-bellied Bustard, Kurrichane Buttonquail, Wattled Crane, Temminck’s Courser, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Southern Ground Hornbill, Brown-backed Honeybird, Greater Honeyguide, Green-capped Eremomela and African Quail-Finch. Migrants from the North were just arriving, adding Lesser Kestrel, Levaillant’s, Dideric and African Cuckoo, Common Swift and Lesser Grey Shrike to the list. Through good fortune and skill we broke through our target on the last day, ending the tour with a very respectable 403 species. On the mammal front there was no such drama in reaching our goal – boosted by Mahango we broke 50 before leaving Namibia. In Moremi we were very fortunate to have twilight encounters with African Civet, Blotched Genet and Springhare. An intense overnight storm on the 22nd may have limited their activities, forcing them afield earlier than usual the next evening. We were also able to add mid-day sightings of Water Buck and Dwarf Mongoose, concluding the trip with 62 mammal species.
After sunset, from Windhoek to Moremi, we would complete our checklist of the day’s sightings and reflect on habitats visited and wildlife seen. Now there were just a few columns left and the inevitability of our departure began to set in. On October 24 we left Moremi, driving to Maun and checking into the Thamalakane River Lodge. On the 25th we said our fond goodbyes to Markus, Grant and Africa and were on our way home.
Closing Thoughts – Special thanks to our great guide Markus Lilje and the whole Rockjumper team, and to Grant Reed at Letaka Safaris and the Letaka crew. Thanks to trip report writers and everyone who helped us at parks, lodges, restaurants and other stops along the way. We were not completely sure what to expect when we set out from Canada but in the end our first trip to Africa was an unforgettable experience, far exceeding our natural history expectations in a safe and secure environment.
Paul Jones, Ottawa, Canada - pauljodiATmagma.ca
Annotated Bird List – Namibia and Botswana – October 5 to 25, 2010 – Total species 403 plus 1 additional heard only (Black Cuckoo). Nomenclature follows the IOC list.
Common Ostrich - Struthio camelus (Seen on 8 days our 21 day trip, daily high count 25) In many areas of southern Africa the local ostriches are feral birds descended from farm stock. The birds in central and northern Namibia are genuinely wild populations. We saw 23 along Route C14 through the Namib-Naukluft National Park in central Namibia. Many were distant black dots, but some were right beside the road. We also had good numbers in Etosha National Park in north-central Namibia and smaller numbers in the Mahango Game Reserve (north-eastern Namibia) and the Moremi Game Reserve (north-central Botswana).
Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris (Seen on 11 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 100) - A signature sight in Etosha and Moremi, often in animated roadside flocks of 20 to 40 birds.
Crested Francolin - Francolinus sephaena (Seen on 4 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 7) 1 on the grounds of the Mushara Lodge on the east side of Etosha; additional sightings in and around Mahango.
Hartlaub’s Francolin - Francolinus hartlaubi (Seen on 1 day of our 21 day trip, daily high count 4) We got this coveted, range-restricted bird the easy way - at first light on October 11 a covey containing 3 males and 1 female visited the bird feeding area below the restaurant at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge, providing extended close views and excellent photographic opportunities. The alternative search method is to awake before dawn and track down birds that are calling at first light from the area’s rocky slopes.
Red-billed Francolin - Francolinus adspersus (Seen on 13 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 150) This is the default roadside galliform, particularly abundant in Moremi.
Swainson's Spurfowl - Francolinus swainsonii (Seen on 6 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 23) We had sightings of this dry grassland bird in eastern Etosha, Mahango and Moremi.
White-faced Whistling Duck - Dendrocygna viduata (Seen on 7 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 50) Our first sightings were in the Mahango flood plain, good numbers thereafter from the Okavango Panhandle to Moremi.
White-backed Duck - Thalassornis leuconotus (Seen on 1 day of our 21 day trip, daily high count 12) – Our only sightings of this anomalous duck were at the Thamalakane River Lodge near Maun, Botswana. The birds were slinking low in floating vegetation along the far bank of the river.
Spur-winged Goose - Plectropterus gambensis (Seen on 7 days of our 21 day trip, daily high count 20) Our first records came from the Mahango flood plain, good numbers thereafter through the Okavango Panhandle to Moremi.
Comb Duck - Sarkidiornis melanotos (Seen on 1 day of our 21 day trip, daily high count 4) Our only contact with this duck was a small flock on the Mahango flood plain.
Egyptian Goose - Alopochen aegyptiacus (Seen 13 days, high count 100) An ungainly fresh water presence.
South African Shelduck - Tadorna cana (Seen 2 days, high count 2) 1 pair at the Windhoek sewage works and 1 at an eastern Etosha waterhole.
African Pygmy-Goose - Nettapus auritus (Seen 3 days, high count 13) We had good numbers of these beautiful birds in Moremi and additional sightings at the Thamalakane River Lodge near Maun.
Cape Teal - Anas capensis (Seen 8 days, high count 8) Recorded at Walvis Bay, Etosha and the Rundu sewage works.
Yellow-billed Duck - Anas undulata (Seen 1 day, high count 4) We saw 2 pairs in Moremi grass-edged flood plain ponds.
Cape Shoveler - Anas smithii (Seen 1 day, high count 1) An extra effort to explore the Walvis Bay sewage works gave us our only sighting of this bird.
Red-billed Teal - Anas erythrorhyncha (Seen 9 days, high count 40) The default duck of the tour.
Hottentot Teal - Anas hottentota (Seen on 2 days, daily high count 12) We obtained excellent views of this attractive species at the Walvis Bay and Rundu sewage works.
Southern Pochard - Netta erythrophthalma (Seen 4 days, high count 4) Windhoek and Rundu sewage works, also Thamalakane River Lodge.
African Penguin - Spheniscus demersus (Seen on 1 day, daily high count 2) We had close views of 2 immature birds on our Walvis Bay boat trip. Both were inside the estuary.
White-chinned Petrel - Procellaria aequinoctialis (1 day, high count 7) We had 7 of these big birds racing by at the edge of the estuary and out in the open ocean on the Walvis Bay boat trip.
Sooty Shearwater - Puffinus griseus (1 day, high count 5) See White-chinned Petrel above.
Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis (10 days, high count 25) Recorded at Windhoek’s Daan Viljoen Game Reserve as well as Moremi and Etosha, including a bewildered bird amongst a herd of thirsty mammals at Etosha’s Okaukuejo water hole.
Black-necked (Eared) Grebe - Podiceps nigricollis (1 day, daily high count 30) Walvis Bay.
Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus roseus (3 days, daily high count 1000 plus) Uncountable thousands at Walvis Bay, from the edge of the waterfront promenade to the horizon.
Lesser Flamingo - Phoenicopterus minor (1 day, high count 50) Our only encounter was with a smallish flock near the Walvis salt works.
Yellow-billed Stork - Mycteria ibis (7 days, high count 10) Mahango flood plains, Okavango Panhandle, Moremi.
African Openbill - Anastomus lamelligerus (5 days, high count 15) Mahango flood plains, Okavango Panhandle, Moremi.
Saddle-billed Stork - Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis (4 days, high count 6) Excellent views of this huge bird in Moremi.
Marabou Stork - Leptoptilos crumeniferus (3 days, high count 4) We saw 1 gliding into a kill near Okaukuejo, Etosha and flying singles and pairs in Moremi (including two from the plane).
Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus (5 days, daily high count 10) Windhoek sewage works, Mahango and Moremi.
Hadeda Ibis - Bostrychia hagedash (2 days, daily high count 4) Moremi.
Glossy Ibis - Plegadis falcinellus (2 days, high count 12) We had 12 in roadside flood plain habitat near Maun, Botswana and a single in Moremi.
African Spoonbill - Platalea alba (4 days, high count 6) Sightings on the Mahango and Moremi flood plains.
Little Bittern - Ixobrychus minutus (2 days, high count 9) 2 at the Rundu sewage works, 9 on our Xaro Lodge boat in the Okavango Panhandle.
White-backed Night Heron - Gorsachius leuconotus (1 day, high count 1) This nocturnal species ranges across Africa but is hard to find. At Xaro the guides know its riverside day roosts and can often locate them for visiting birders. We had excellent views of 1 on our Okavango boat trip.
Black-crowned Night Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax (2 days, high count 10) Seen from the Xaro Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle.
Striated (Green-backed) Heron - Butorides striatus (6 days, high count 20) Rundu sewage works, Mahango and the Okavango Panhandle.
Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides (9 days, daily high count 120) Windhoek sewage works, Mahango, Okavango Panhandle and Moremi - especially abundant in the Papyrus beds around Xaro Lodge.
Rufous-bellied Heron - Ardeola rufiventris (3 days, high count 4) Mahango and the Xaro Lodge provided excellent views of this uncommon species.
Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis (8 days, high count 20) Windhoek and Rundu sewage works, also Mahango and Moremi.
Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea (11 days, high count 20) Windhoek, Walvis Bay, Etosha, Mahango and Moremi.
Black-headed Heron - Ardea melanocephala (4 days, high count 4) This species is not dependent on standing water; our first record was in the ornamental palms along the Walvis Bay promenade. Additional sightings were obtained at the Rundu sewage works.
Goliath Heron - Aredea purpurea (3 days, daily high count 2) 1 on the flood plains at the Mahango Game Reserve; 3 more in the Okavango Panhandle. This, the world’s largest heron, has a low, lumbering flight. The somewhat similarly plumaged Purple Heron typically flies higher and quicker.
Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea (5 days, high count 40) Mahango, Okavango and Moremi.
Great Egret - Ardea albus (6 days, high count 80) Mahango, Okavango River and Panhandle and Moremi.
Intermediate Egret - Egretta intermedia (6 days, high count 4) Mahango, Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
Black Heron - Egretta ardesiaca (3 days, high count 13) The Okavango Panhandle’s Xaro Lodge had good numbers of this species on sandbars and at the edge of the Papyrus; additional sightings were obtained in Moremi.
Slaty Egret - Egretta vinaceigula (6 days, high count 13) We had excellent views of this much sought after bird in Mahango and Moremi. To my eyes Slaty and Black Egret are, unless very close, indistinguishable by plumage and it was usually by obtaining good views of their legs (all yellow in Slaty, black with yellow feet in Black) that I was confident of identification.
Little Egret - Egretta garzetta (10 days, high count 140) Walvis Bay, Rundu, Mahango, Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
Hamerkop - Scopus umbretta (7 days, high count 3) Sightings near Windhoek and in Moremi, including 1 fighting with a giant, inflated toad.
Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus (4 days, high count 100 plus) Hundreds in Walvis Bay including hand-fed birds on our boat trip. Pink-backed Pelican is a possibility in Moremi but we did not see it.
Cape Gannet - Morus capensis (1 day, high count 7) 7 on the Walvis Bay boat trip - at the edge of the estuary and out in the open ocean.
Reed (Long-tailed) Cormorant - Microcarbo africanus (11 days, high count 300) We encountered this species near Windhoek at the Avis Dam and Daan Viljoen and again in very good numbers from Rundu through to Moremi.
Note - Five cormorant species are present on the tour route. Reed Cormorant is a common, inland, freshwater species. White-breasted occurs in both fresh and coastal waters. Cape, Crowned and Bank are exclusively salt-water. We searched for them in the estuary and open ocean at Walvis Bay. Cape Cormorant is the commonest and probably cannot be missed. The tricky species are Crowned and Bank, which are more oceanic and difficult to see from shore. Carefully scanning the cormorant platforms between Walvis and Swakopmund may yield sightings. We picked up two Crowneds on our Walvis boat trip and saw another from shore on a platform. We missed Bank.
Crowned Cormorant - Microcarbo coranatus (2 days, high count 3) Walvis.
White-breasted Cormorant - Phalacrocorax lucidus (4 days, high count 40) Recorded at Avis Dam, Walvis and Rundu.
Cape Cormorant - Phalacrocorax capensis (3 days, high count 1000 plus) Large numbers were seen in the Walvis Bay area.
African Darter - Anhinga rufa (9 days, high count 20) Encountered at the Windhoek sewage works and again from Mahango through to Moremi.
Secretarybird - Sagittarius serpentarius (3 days, high count 4) This great bird was seen striding across the Etosha and Moremi savannah.
Osprey - Pandion haliaetus (1 day, high count 1) Windhoek sewage works.
Black-winged Kite - Elanus caeruleus (6 days, high count 4) Scattered sightings throughout the trip.
Yellow-billed Kite - Milvus aegyptius (9 days, high count 12) From October 16 on we had daily sightings of this migratory bird.
African Fish Eagle - Haliaeetus vocifer (8 days, high count 10) Recorded at the Avis Dam near Windhoek, along the Okavango and in Moremi.
Hooded Vulture - Nycrosyrtes monachus (1 day, high count 2) 2 sightings in Moremi - a more delicate bird than the other vultures.
White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus (11 days, high count 20) Etosha, Mahango and Moremi; the most frequently seen vulture.
White-headed Vulture - Aegypius occipitalis (3 days, high count 1) Singles in Etosha, Mahango and Moremi. The female’s pale secondaries allow this uncommon bird to be picked out in flight at a great distance.
Lappet-faced Vulture - Torgos tracheliotus (7 days, high count 6) In Etosha we saw 2 to 6 daily. Additional sightings were obtained in Mahango (2) and Moremi (1). Globally threatened.
Black-chested Snake-Eagle - Circaetus pectoralis (8 days, high count 1) Regular sightings throughout the trip.
Brown Snake-Eagle - Circaetus cinereus (5 days, high count 7) We saw
7 in northern Namibia on our October 17 drive east along the B8 from Rundu to the Divava Lodge on the Okavango River. We had additional sightings in Mahango and Moremi.
Bateleur - Terathopius ecaudatus (10 days, high count 8) We had many sightings of this attractive bushveld raptor in Etosha, Mahango and Moremi.
African Marsh-Harrier - Circus ranivorus (2 days, high count 7) Frequently seen over the reed beds from Xaro Lodge, 1 sighting in Moremi.
Dark Chanting Goshawk - Melierax metabates (2 days, high count 1) Not seen until the Botswana border with 1 roadside sighting in Mahango. Our only other encounter was also roadside, between Moremi and Maun.
Pale Chanting Goshawk - Melierax canorus (10 days, high count 8) The “PCG” was a frequent sight on roadside transmission poles from Windhoek through to Rundu, after which it disappeared. Has a very distinctive stance – body held horizontal on long legs.
Gabar Goshawk - Micronisus gabar (5 days, high count 3) Sightings in Etosha, Mahango and Moremi; the white rump is a good field mark.
Shikra - Accipiter badius (3 days, high count 2) Rundu area and Moremi.
Tawny Eagle - Aquila rapax (7 days, high count 6) A conspicuous presence in Etosha and Moremi; often seen roosting in tall trees around waterholes.
Verreaux’s Eagle - Aquila verreauxii (1 day, high count 3) We watched a pair of these majestic birds from the “eagle lookout” at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Later 1 flew right over the lodge itself.
Wahlberg's Eagle - Hieraaetus wahlbergi (2 days, high count 2) Mahango and Moremi.
Booted Eagle - Hieraaetus pennatus (1 day, high count 1) 1 near Windhoek on October 6.
Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle - Hieraaetus ayeresii (1 day, high count 1) We saw 1 in northern Namibia on our October 17 drive east along the B8 from Rundu to the Divava Lodge on the Okavango River. This bird, like Booted Eagle, has very prominent “landing lights” on the leading edge of its wings that are visible from very far away.
African Hawk-Eagle - Hieraaetus spilogaster (6 days, high count 2) Scattered sightings throughout the trip.
Martial Eagle - Polemaetus bellicosus (3 days, high count 1) Recorded in Etosha, along the B8 in northern Namibia, and in Moremi.
Pygmy Falcon - Polihierax semitorquatus (1 day, high count 2) 2 perched on transmission poles along the C28 between Outjo and Etosha National Park.
Rock Kestrel - Falco rupicolus (7 days, high count 3) Regularly recorded in dry country from Windhoek to Etosha.
Greater Kestrel - Falco rupicoloides (5 days, high count 4) Recorded in the Namib desert along the C14 and again in Etosha.
Dickinson’s Kestrel - Falco dickinsoni (2 days, high count 2) This uncommon bird was seen perched atop big, grey, dead trees in Moremi.
Red-necked Falcon - Falco chicquera (2 days, high count 4) Etosha at waterholes.
Lanner Falcon - Falco biarmicus (6 days, high count 1) Scattered sightings from Windhoek to Rundu. 1 was perching PCG-like between Windhoek and Walvis Bay on a roadside transmission pole.
Peregrine Falcon - Falco peregrinus (2 days, high count 1) 1 in the Erongo Mountains, 1 in Moremi.
Kori Bustard - Ardeotis kori (5 days, high count 30) This huge bird was recorded daily in Etosha National Park.
Rueppell’s Korhaan - Eupodotis rueppelli (3 days, high count 7) Small groups of this attractive, range-restricted bustard were observed between Windhoek and Walvis Bay. We also had one sighting near the Spitzkoppe.
Red-crested Korhaan - Eupodotis ruficristata (8 days, high count 3) Regular sightings in the Etosha area and Moremi.
Northern Black Korhaan - Afrotis afraoides (5 days, high count 40) Multiple daily sightings in Etosha.
Black-bellied Bustard - Lissotis melanogaster (1 day, high count 1) 1 in tall grass in Moremi, an uncommon bird.
African Crake - Crex egregia (1 day, high count 1) 1 cooperative bird in the field below the Rundu sewage works.
Black Crake - Amaurornis flavirostris (8 days, high count 3) Recorded at Rundu, Mahango, the Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
African Swamphen - Porphyrio madagascariensis (1 day, high count 2) A pair at the Windhoek sewage works.
Allen's Gallinule - Porphyrio alleni (1 day, high count 1) 1 in a Moremi reed-edged flood plain pond.
Common Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus (4 days, high count 30) Recorded at the Windhoek, Walvis Bay and Rundu sewage works.
Lesser Moorhen - Gallinula angulata (1 day, high count 1) 1 at the Rundu sewage works.
Red-knobbed Coot - Fulica cristata (5 days, high count 10) Recorded at the Windhoek, Walvis Bay and Rundu sewage works.
Wattled Crane - Grus carunculata (1 day, high count 2) After a relentless search, Grant Reed of Lataka Safari obtained stunning views for us of this stately bird in Moremi. Can also be seen in Mahango.
Kurrichane (Small) Buttonquail - Turnix sylvaticus (1 day, high count 1) 1 flushed from the roadside in Moremi.
Water Thick-knee - Burhinus vermiculatus (5 days, high count 9) Our sightings were in the Okavango Panhandle and in Moremi.
Spotted Thick-knee - Burhinus capensis (3 days, high count 6) 6 recorded on the night drive from Okaukuejo, Etosha; additional sightings near the Mushara Lodge at the eastern edge of Etosha and in Moremi.
African Oystercatcher - Haematopus moquini (3 days, high count 6) We did well with this species. Our sightings were along the Walvis to Swakopmund waterfront, including birds from the main Walvis promenade.
Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus (9 days, high count 75) Walvis Bay, Rundu and Moremi.
Pied Avocet - Recurvirostra avosetta (4 days, high count 1000 plus) Abundant in the Walvis Bay lagoon, also seen at the Rundu sewage works.
Long-toed Lapwing - Vanellus crassirostris (6 days, high count 15) Mahango floodplain, Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
Blacksmith Lapwing - Vanellus armatus (16 days, high count 30) A constant fresh water companion.
Crowned Lapwing - Vanellus coronatus (9 days, high count 16) Etosha, Mahango and Moremi, a common dry savannah species.
African Wattled Lapwing - Vanellus senegallus (1 day, high count 4) Sandbar sightings on our Xaro Lodge boat trip.
Grey (Black-bellied) Plover - Pluvialis squatarola (4 days, high count 70)
Many at Walvis Bay, 1 at the waterhole north of Etosha’s Andoni gate.
Common Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiaticula (3 days, high count 25) Walvis.
Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecuarius (4 days, high count 20) Recorded in small numbers at Walvis and Etosha area, including north of the Andoni gate.
Three-banded Plover - Charadrius tricollaris (6 days, high count 20) Scattered sightings around Walvis Bay, Etosha and Rundu.
White-fronted Plover - Charadrius marginatus (3 days, high count 80)
Walvis Bay.
Chestnut-banded Plover - Charadrius pallidus (5 days, high count 200) We saw many in the Walvis Bay lagoon, which hosts the bulk of the world population; also seen north of Etosha’s Andoni gate.
Greater Painted Snipe - Rostratula benghalensis (2 days, high count 2) 1 at the Rundu sewage works and 2 at a Moremi water crossing.
Lesser Jacana - Microparra capensis (2 days, high count 1) Singles of this hard to come by bird were at the Rundu sewage works and in the Okavango Panhandle from the Xaro Lodge. Salvation, our boat pilot on the Okavango, was able to maneuver close for excellent photographic opportunities.
African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus (14 days, high count 20) Many.
Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica (2 days, high count 60) Walvis.
Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus (3 days, high count 10) Walvis.
Marsh Sandpiper - Tringa stagnatilis (4 days, high count 3) Recorded in freshwater habitat at Windhoek, Walvis Bay and Rundu.
Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia (12 days, high count 10) Recorded in freshwater at Windhoek, Walvis Bay, Etosha, Rundu and Moremi.
Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola (10 days, high count 12) As above.
Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos (6 days, high count 3) Rundu and the Okavango Panhandle.
Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres (4 days, high count 40) Many at Walvis, 1 also north of Etosha’s Andoni gate.
Sanderling - Calidris alba (2 days, high count 30) Walvis.
Little Stint - Calidris minuta (6 days, high count 40) Walvis, Etosha at water and Rundu.
Curlew Sandpiper - Calidris ferruginea (5 days, high count 500 plus) Large numbers at Walvis Bay, 2 additional sightings at waterholes in Etosha.
Ruff - Philomachus pugnax (8 days, high count 20) Recorded in freshwater habitat at Windhoek, Walvis Bay, Etosha, Rundu and Moremi.
Red-necked Phalarope - Phalaropus lobatus (1 day, high count 12) 12 birds including 2 breeding plumaged females were seen near the salt works in Walvis Bay on October 8.
Burchell's Courser - Cursorius rufus (5 days, high count 6) This nomadic species is prone to mysteriously appear and disappear from areas and consequently is missable on a tour. We were very fortunate to see it on 5 consecutive days in Etosha, all in low, dry roadside grass.
Temminck's Courser - Cursorius temminckii (2 days, high count 2) We saw 3 birds in Moremi, all in open, short grass areas. This species is very similar to Burchell's Courser, lacking the blue-gray nape.
Double-banded Courser - Cursorius smutsornis (4 days, high count 6) In Etosha we recorded this beautiful bird on 4 consecutive days. It fits the park well, the crisp plumage matching the area’s pale geology.
Collared Pratincole - Glareola pratincola (5 days, high count 22) Mahango and Moremi floodplains.
Rock Pratincole - Glareola nuchalis (2 days, high count 3) Careful scanning of rocky outcrops on the Okavango near Popa Falls (including from the Divava Lodge) in northeastern Namibia produced these birds.
African Skimmer - Rynchops flavirostris (5 days, high count 16) We had distant views of 2 birds over the Mahango floodplains and then close looks at many in the Okavango Panhandle from the Xaro Lodge.
Kelp Gull - Larus dominicanus (3 days, high count 80) Walvis.
Grey-hooded Gull - Larus cirrocephalus (1 day, high count 25) Walvis.
Hartlaub's Gull - Larus hartlaubii (3 days, high count 100) Many between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, an attractive southern African endemic
Caspian Tern - Sterna caspia (2 days, high count 25) Walvis.
Sandwich Tern - Sterna sandvicensis (2 days, high count 30) Walvis.
Swift Tern - Sterna bergii (3 days, high count 25) Walvis.
Common Tern - Sterna hirundo (2 days, high count 500 plus) Walvis.
Damara Tern - Sterna balaenarum (2 days, high count 6) We had good views from the Walvis Bay promenade of this tiny tern, both in flight and roosting beside other terns at the edge of the mud flats.
Whiskered Tern - Chlidonias hybridus (2 days, high count 3) Observed in the Okavango Panhandle from Xaro and in Moremi floodplain habitat.
White-winged Tern - Chlidonias leucopterus (3 days, high count 1) 1 at the Namutoni waterhole in Etosha and 2 additional sightings from Xaro Lodge.
Black Tern - Chlidonias niger (1 day, high count 1000 plus) Only recorded on our Walvis Bay boat trip; abundant in the outer estuary and open ocean.
Parasitic Jaeger - Stercorarius parasiticus (2 days, high count 3) Observed from shore and boat at Walvis Bay.
Namaqua Sandgrouse - Pterocles namaqua (6 days, high count 200)
Observed in the Namib along the C14 and at waterholes in Etosha.
Double-banded Sandgrouse - Pterocles bicinctus (6 days, high count 70) Large numbers observed at dusk flying in to drink at the waterhole in Halali in Etosha National Park, additional sightings in Mahango and Moremi.
Burchell’s Sandgrouse - Pterocles bicinctus (2 days, high count 150) Good numbers at dawn at waterholes in Etosha, 2 additional sightings in Moremi.
Rock Pigeon - Columba livia (6 days, high count 10) Windhoek and Walvis.
Speckled Pigeon - Columba guinea (7 days, high count 40) Common in dry country from Windhoek to Walvis Bay to the Erongos. Pigeons and doves generally are a prominent feature of the southern African landscape.
Mourning Collared Dove - Streptopelia decipiens (1 day, high count 4) Seen only at the Kaisosi Lodge near Rundu.
Red-eyed Dove - Streptopelia semitorquata (9 days, high count 20) Recorded daily once we reached moister the Okavango River system.
Ring-necked Dove - Streptopelia capicola (18 days, high count 300) Lots.
Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis (20 days, high count 20) Many.
Emerald-spotted Wood Dove - Turtur chalcospilos (10 days, high count 10) Recorded daily from eastern Etosha on.
Namaqua Dove - Oena capensis (15 days, high count 15) Common.
African Green Pigeon - Treron calva (4 days, high count 6) Recorded in the Okavango Panhandle in the riparian forest around the Xaro Lodge; 1 sighting in Moremi.
Rosy-faced Lovebird - Agapornis roseicollis (5 days, high count 60) We had fleeting glimpses of these delightful birds around Windhoek and then stunning views in the Erongos.
Meyer's Parrot - Poicephalus meyeri (3 days, high count 6) Small numbers in Mahango (including at the western entrance gate), Xaro and Moremi.
Rueppell’s Parrot - Poicephalus rueppellii (1 day, high count 1) We had a single sighting within 10 minutes of arriving at the Khan River along the C33 between Karibib and Omaruru.
Grey Go-away-bird - Corythaixoides concolor (15 days, high count 10) Many.
Senegal Coucal - Centropus senegalensis (4 days, high count 6) Found in the Rundu area and again in Moremi floodplain habitat.
Coppery-tailed Coucal - Centropus cupreicaudus (6 days, high count 10)
Rundu through to Moremi provided regular sightings of this large coucal.
White-browed Coucal - Centropus superciliosus (1 day, high count 1) 1 very uncooperative individual in Moremi.
Black Coucal - Centropus grillii (1 day, high count 2) 2 on October 23 in long grass in Moremi.
Levaillant’s Cuckoo - Clamator levaillantii (2 days, high count 1) 1 returning migrant called into camp in Moremi on October 21, heard again the next day.
Dideric Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx caprius (1 day, high count 1) 1 returning migrant called in at the Maun Crocodile farm on October 25.
Black Cuckoo - Cuculus clamosus (heard only, Xaro, October 20)
African Cuckoo - Cuculus gularis (2 days, high count 1) Close views of calling birds in Moremi on October 22 and 23.
Barn Owl - Tyto alba (2 days, high count 1) We found a day-roosting bird at the Halali Camp in Etosha and saw another night-flying bird at the Kaisosi Lodge along the Okavango near Rundu.
Note – 10 owls are possible along the route. Pearl-spotted Owlet is the most likely. Visiting birders have a good shot at the remaining 9 although none are certain. We were fortunate to connect with all of them.
African Scops Owl - Otus senegalensis (1 day, high count 1) We had excellent views of a day-roosting individual at the Halali Camp in Etosha. The camp security guards keep an eye on the location of these birds (and the next species) and are happy to let you know their whereabouts. We thought a tip was appropriate for this assistance.
Southern White-faced Owl - Ptilopsis granti (2 days, high count 2) We saw a day-rooster and a night-hunter in the Halali Camp; two in Moremi.
Spotted Eagle-Owl - Bubo africanus (1 day, high count 2) Okaukuejo waterhole (Etosha) at night.
Verreaux's Eagle-Owl - Bubo lacteus (3 days, high count 2) In Moremi we had excellent early morning and evening views of this very large owl.
Pel’s Fishing-Owl - Scotopelia peli (2 days, high count 1) From the Xaro Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle we were guided on foot and by boat to 2 separate day-roosting individuals of this prized species.
African Wood-Owl - Strix woodfordii (2 days, high count 1) Close overhead views at night at the Xaro and Lawdons lodges in the Okavango Panhandle.
Pearl-spotted Owlet - Glaucidium perlatum (4 days, high count 1) We frequently heard this small owl (and used its recording to lure in small birds) in wooded areas. Sightings were obtained at the Okaukuejo Camp in central Etosha, the Mushara Lodge at Etosha’s eastern edge and in Moremi.
African Barred Owlet - Glaucidium capense (1 day, high count 1) 1 sighting only, tracked down at dusk along the trail behind Xaro Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle.
Marsh Owl - Asio capensis (3 days, high count 2) We were fortunate to have sightings on this bird on the road during the Okaukuejo Camp night drive, at the Okaukuejo Camp itself at first light and near the Kaisosi Lodge along the Okavango near Rundu.
Rufous-cheeked Nightjar - Caprimulgus rufigena (2 days, high count 3) Okaukuejo waterhole, Etosha.
Fiery-necked Nightjar - Caprimulgus pectoralis (1 day, high count 2) 2 by spotlight on a night walk at Kaisosi Lodge along the Okavango. Heard also at the Xaro Lodge, a nice liquid call.
Freckled Nightjar - Caprimulgus tristigma (3 days, high count 3) We had excellent views of day-roosting and night-calling birds on the rock faces around the pool at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar - Caprimulgus fossii (1 day, high count 1) 1 evening sighting of a calling bird on the road into the Kaisosi Lodge along the Okavango near Rundu.
African Palm Swift - Cypsiurus parvus (12 days, high count 40) Regular sightings throughout the tour.
Alpine Swift - Tachymarptis melba (2 days, high count 6) This big, dramatic swift was seen near Windhoek at Avis Dam and in Daan Viljoen.
Common Swift - Apus apus (1 day, high count 2) 2 returning migrants in Moremi on October 24.
Bradfield’s Swift - Apus bradfieldi (2 days, high count 25) Present in downtown Windhoek and at Avis Dam and Daan Viljoen.
Little Swift - Apus affinis (7 days, high count 200) We had regular sightings from Windhoek to Etosha but not thereafter.
White-rumped Swift - Apus caffer (4 days, high count 6) As Little Swift.
White-backed Mousebird - Colius colius (3 days, high count 75) Many around Windhoek, 10 at the Spitzkoppe but none thereafter.
Red-faced Mousebird - Urocolius indicus (6 days, high count 20) 4 in the town of Outjo south of Etosha, good numbers in the Okavango Panhandle and 4 in Moremi.
Purple Roller - Coracias naevia (10 days, high count 22) 4 at the Windhoek sewage works, 22 along highway C38 from Outjo to Etosha and then scattered sightings thereafter.
Lilac-breasted Roller - Coracias caudata (11 days, high count 21) This beautiful bird was a signature roadside sight throughout the tour.
Broad-billed Roller - Eurystomus glaucurus (5 days, high count 8) We first saw this interesting bird in the Okavango Panhandle and then had regular sightings in Moremi. It flies in the manner of a pratincole.
Grey-headed Kingfisher - Halcyon leucocephala (2 days, high count 1) Seen at Lawdons Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle; a returning migrant.
Striped Kingfisher - Halcyon chelicuti (1 day, high count 2) 2 calling birds tracked down along the dry roadside near Divundu in north-eastern Namibia.
Malachite Kingfisher - Alcedo cristata (6 days, high count 40) Abundant and confiding along the Okavango River and Panhandle.
Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maxima (3 days, high count 8) Recorded in the Okavango Panhandle at Drotsky’s, Lawdons and Xaro lodges.
Pied Kingfisher - Ceryle rudis (9 days, high count 23) This wetland bird was recorded from the Rundu sewage works through to Moremi.
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater - Merops hirundineus (12 days, high count 20) The most widely distributed bee-eater of the trip; encountered around Windhoek, the Spitzkoppe, the Erongo mountains, Etosha, Mahango and Moremi.
Little Bee-eater - Merops pusillus (9 days, high count 15) Not recorded until we reached Rundu in north-eastern Namibia, seen daily thereafter.
White-fronted Bee-eater - Merops bullockoides (4 days, high count 50)
Recorded in the Okavango Panhandle at Drotsky’s, Lawdons and Xaro lodges. Birds were nesting in the river cutbank at Xaro.
European Bee-eater - Merops apiaster (11 days, high count 35) This migrant was first seen on October 11. On the 14th we had good numbers east of Halali, Etosha. Regularly encountered thereafter.
Southern Carmine Bee-eater - Merops nubicoides (8 days, high count 200) Our first sightings of this fantastic bird were in the Mahango Game Reserve in north-eastern Namibia. We saw it regularly thereafter, including nesting colonies along the Okavango River at and around Xaro Lodge.
African Hoopoe - Upupa africana (10 days, high count 3) Regular sightings throughout the tour, another great bird.
Green Wood-hoopoe - Phoeniculus purpureus (7 days, high count 9) First recorded at Mahango Game Reserve, frequently seen thereafter through to Moremi. Beautiful but uncooperative, always on the move.
Violet Wood-hoopoe - Phoeniculus damarensis (2 days, high count 2) We were very fortunate to see a pair within 5 minutes of arriving at the dry Khan riverbed where it intersects with highway C33. We also had a single bird at the Halali camp in Etosha.
Common Scimitar-bill - Rhinopomastus cyanomelas (12 days, high count 8) Many sightings of this nice bird throughout the tour.
Bradfield's Hornbill - Tockus bradfieldi (3 days, high count 5) We saw this range-restricted species along the Okavango River in north-eastern Namibia and again on the road to Maun.
Note - Namibia and Botswana are outstanding Hornbill destinations. 7 are available along our route, including range-restricted Bradfield’s, Monteiro’s and Damara as well as the charismatic Southern Ground Hornbill. We saw them all. 2 additional ones (Trumpeter and Crowned) are possible on the Caprivi extension. Not only is there great diversity, but also absolute abundance. Moremi produced 212 individual sightings of 4 species.
African Grey Hornbill - Tockus nasutus (15 days, high count 20) Many.
Monteiro’s Hornbill - Tockus monteiri (5 days, high count 8) We had frequent encounters with this range-restricted hornbill around Windhoek, at the Spitzkoppe and in the Erongo Mountains.
Southern Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus erythrorhynchus (6 days, high count 63) Many sightings in Etosha National Park and Moremi.
Damara Hornbill - Tockus damarensis (4 days, high count 4) We saw this bird in its purest form (dark eye and clean white head) in the dry Khan River north of Usakos. Additional murkier birds were seen in Etosha.
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill - Tockus leucomelas (14 days, high count 40) Many sightings throughout the tour.
Southern Ground Hornbill - Bucorvus leadbeateri (1 day, high count 4) Not certain on the route, this was probably my “most-wanted” bird. We found a family group trudging across the Moremi savannah.
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus chrysoconus (2 days, high count 4) We saw this tiny barbet along the B8 in northeastern Namibia.
Acacia Pied Barbet - Tricholaema leucomelas (8 days, high count 3) Regular sightings throughout the Namibia portion of the tour, including within the Okaukuejo Camp.
Black-collared Barbet - Lybius torquatus (2 days, high count 4) Seen at the Divava Lodge in northeastern Namibia, 1 sighting in Moremi.
Crested Barbet - Trachyphonus vaillantii (1 day, high count 3) Moremi only – 1 handout-seeker sat on our vehicle.
Brown-backed (Wahlberg’s) Honeybird - Prodotiscus regulus (1 day, high count 1) We saw 1 of these obscure birds, expertly picked out of a Mopane woodland mixed flock by our Moremi guide Grant Reed.
Lesser Honeyguide - Indicator minor (2 days, high count 2) We had a confiding pair in the park opposite the beautiful Christuskirche on Fidel Castro Street in downtown Windhoek, also a single bird at Kaisosi Lodge.
Greater Honeyguide - Indicator indicator (1 day, high count 1) Tracked down in Moremi’s Mopane woodland by its persistent “Vic-tor” call.
Bennett's Woodpecker - Campethera bennettii (4 days, high count 10) Sightings in Mahango, at Drotsky’s Cabin and in Moremi.
Note - Namibia and Botswana are not outstanding woodpecker destinations. The 4 available species occur in low density and are broadly similar in their conventional appearance.
Golden-tailed Woodpecker - Campethera abingoni (1 day, high count 2)
Okavango Panhandle only, on the grounds of Drotsky’s Cabins.
Cardinal Woodpecker - Dendropicos fuscescens (5 days, high count 3)
Scattered sightings from Windhoek to Moremi.
Bearded Woodpecker - Dendropicos namaquus (2 days, high count 2) Seen at Xaro Lodge and Thamalakane River Lodge near Maun, Botswana.
Chinspot Batis - Batis molitor (3 days, high count 6) Our only sightings were from Rundu to Divundu in northeastern Namibia.
Pririt Batis - Batis pririt (3 days, high count 2) We saw this dry country species in Daan Viljoen and the Erongo Mountains.
White-tailed Shrike - Lanioturdus torquatus (4 days, high count 4) We saw this beautiful and much-coveted Namibian near-endemic in Daan Viljoen, at the Spitzkoppe and in the Erongo Mountains.
White-crested Helmetshrike - Prionops plumatus (8 days, high count 12) Small family groups were seen in Etosha, Mahango and Moremi woodland.
Retz’s Helmetshrike - Prionops retzii (3 days, high count 6) We picked up small groups of these striking birds along the B8 in northeastern Namibia as well as at Xaro Lodge and in Moremi.
Orange–breasted Bushshrike - Telophorus sulfureopectus (3 days, high count 2) This beautiful but skulky bird was well seen in thorny scrub in Mahango, at Lawdons Lodge and in Moremi.
Bokmakierie - Telophorus zeylonus (2 days, high count 3) A pair of these birds made a dramatic appearance from the early morning fog at the Rooibank Dune Lark spot. The Spitzkoppe provided beautiful sun-lit views.
Brown-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra australis (9 days, high count 6) Regular sightings throughout the trip.
Black-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra senegalus (1 day, high count 2) Moremi.
Black-backed Puffback - Dryoscopus cubla (6 days, high count 5) Scattered sightings from eastern Etosha (Namutoni area) to Moremi, including displaying birds.
Swamp Boubou - Laniarius bicolor (7 days, high count 8) Regular river sightings from Rundu eastwards. The “zring” call (reminiscent of a Varied Thrush for North American birders) is a signature sound along the Okavango.
Crimson-breasted Shrike - Laniarius atrococcineus (9 days, high count 6) Regular sightings in dry, scrubby woodland from Windhoek to Moremi.
Brubru - Nilaus afer (4 days, high count 1) Heard more often than seen, sightings in Etosha, Mahango and Moremi.
Magpie Shrike - Corvinella melanoleuca (8 days, high count 13) First recorded in eastern Etosha (Namutoni area), also in Mahango and Moremi.
Southern White-crowned Shrike - Eurocephalus anguitimens (8 days, high count 6) Regular sightings from Etosha east to Mahango and Moremi.
Lesser Grey Shrike - Lanius minor (1 day, high count 1) 1 Moremi sighting of this Palaearctic migrant on October 23.
Common Fiscal - Lanius collaris (7 days, high count 10) Regular sightings from the Spitzkoppe through Etosha, not thereafter.
Eurasian Golden Oriole - Oriolus oriolus (1 day, high count 1) 1 sighting on October 17 along the B8 in northeastern Namibia.
Black-headed Oriole - Oriolus larvatus (4 days, high count 1) Scattered sightings from Rundu east to Maun’s Thamalakane River Lodge.
Fork-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus adsimilis (17 days, high count 30) Many, a signature trip bird.
African Paradise Flycatcher - Terpsiphone viridis (9 days, high count 4) This wonderful bird was encountered everyday from Rundu on.
Cape Crow - Corvus capensis (6 days, high count 20) Encountered in the Walvis Bay area (inland) and in Etosha National Park.
Pied Crow - Corvus albus (6 days, high count 6) See Cape Crow above.
Carp’s Black Tit - Parus carpi (4 days, high count 4) This Namibian near-endemic was seen at the Khan River and in the Erongos.
Southern Black-Tit - Parus niger (6 days, high count 12) Regular sightings from Rundu east into Moremi.
Rufous-bellied Tit - Parus rufiventus (1 day, high count 1) 1 happy sighting at the com tower along the B8 in northeastern Namibia.
Ashy Tit - Melaniparus cinerascens (2 days, high count 2) We encountered this elegant bird at Rooibank and in the Erongos. It was interesting to see a version of our familiar winter chickadee in the semi-desert.
African Penduline Tit - Anthoscopus caroli (1 day, high count 2) A calling pair zipped quickly through the open forest at the com tower along the B8 in northeastern Namibia. Markus’s quick reaction got us this bird.
Cape Penduline Tit - Anthoscopus minutus (1 day, high count 3) A slightly more leisurely group provided decent views in the roadside scrub east of the Halali camp in Etosha.
Rufous-naped Lark - Mirafra africana (1 day, high count 1) 1 called in from dry scrub in Moremi.
Note - Our route through Namibia and Botswana offered the possibility of 16 lark species. In preparing for the trip the field guide illustrations seemed overwhelming and even as I write this report the specifics of some of the sightings are starting to fade from memory. Despite this, our search for these birds stands out as one of the more enjoyable aspects of the trip. Larks typically allow close approach and study, either on foot or from the car, and it was usually possible to independently work through their field marks and successfully identify them.
Flappert Lark - Miafra rufocinnamomea (1 day, high count 1) 1 along the dry roadside in Mahango.
Clapper Lark - Mirafra apiata (3 days, high count 3) Several in Etosha.
Fawn-colored Lark - Mirafra africanoides (2 days, high count 2) 2 seen on the southern approach to Etosha and 1 again east of the Namutoni camp.
Sabota Lark - Mirafra sabota (7 days, high count 20) The trip’s commonest lark; recorded in dry scrubby areas from Windhoek through to eastern Etosha but not beyond.
Dune Lark - Certhilauda erythrochlamys (1 day, high count 3) This Namibian endemic is a “must-see” for visiting birders. We obtained our sightings in the morning fog at the classic Rooibank location just outside Walvis Bay. A hike around the area should eventually reveal 1 or 2 running up, down and in between the sparsely vegetated red dunes.
Karoo Long-billed Lark - Certhilauda subcoronata (1 day, high count 1) Our only sighting arose from shade-birding in the Spitzkoppe area – driving the roads and checking the sun shelter created by fence posts, transmission poles and shrubs.
Spike-heeled Lark - Chersomanes albofasciata (4 days, high count 10) First recorded around the Spitzkoppe, also in Etosha.
Gray's Lark - Ammomanopsis grayi (1 day, high count 6) We encountered this great, pale bird in the Namib desert along the C14 from Walvis Bay. By placing ourselves in their direction of travel, small groups would approach from a distance and walk around us, coming too close for camera focus.
Red-capped Lark - Calandrella cinerea (5 days, high count 400) We encountered big numbers of this distinctive species around the waterholes in the Etosha area, especially at the spring north of the Andoni gate.
Pink-billed Lark - Spizocorys conirostris (2 days, high count 25) We had 2 in the Okaukuejo area in Etosha and at least 25 north of the Andoni gate.
Stark’s Lark - Eremalauda starki (3 days, high count 8) Our sightings were in the Spitzkoppe area and around Okaukuejo in Etosha. I found this species required close study to identify with confidence.
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark - Eremopterix leucotis (4 days, high count 12) Small numbers around waterholes and on the roads in Etosha, perhaps 1 for every 20 of the next species.
Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark - Eremopterix verticalis (5 days, high count 200 plus) Common around waterholes and on the roads in Etosha.
African Red-eyed Bulbul - Pycnonotus nigricans (12 days, high count 30) We saw this bird every day but one from Windhoek to Mahango at the Botswana border, after which it was replaced by:
Dark-capped Bulbul - Pycnonotus [barbatus] tricolor (8 days, high count 30) Recorded every day from Mahango on east.
Yellow-bellied Greenbul - Chlorocichla flaviventris (4 days, high count 12) Fairly common from the Rundu area in northeastern Namibia through to the Xaro Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle.
Terrestrial Brownbul - Phyllastrephus terrestris (3 days, high count 12) Seen in lodge gardens along the Okavango at Divava through to Xaro; it is not terribly hard to find at the undergrowth’s edge.
Brown-throated (Plain) Martin - Riparia paludicola (2 days, high count 6) Recorded over the Okavango River from the Xaro Lodge.
Banded Martin - Riparia cincta (2 days, high count 3) 1 at the Rundu sewage works, additional sightings in the Okavango Panhandle.
Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica (12 days, high count 40) This northern migrant was recorded almost daily from October 11 on.
White-throated Swallow - Hirundo albigularis (2 days, high count 6) We saw this attractive species at Avis Dam and the Windhoek sewage works.
Wire-tailed Swallow - Hirundo smithii (6 days, high count 20) Fairly common along the Okavango from Rundu to Xaro Lodge.
Pearl-breasted Swallow - Hirundo dimidiata (1 day, high count 3) Windhoek sewage works only, an uncommon bird.
Rock Martin - Ptyonoprogne fuligula (7 days, high count 20) Regular from Windhoek to central Etosha. A classic sight wheeling around the rock faces at the Spitzkoppe and in the Erongos.
Greater Striped Swallow - Cecropis cucullata (6 days, high count 6) Seen around Windhoek, the Erongos and Rundu.
Lesser Striped Swallow - Cecropis abyssinica (3 days, high count 10)
Recorded only in Mahango and the Okavango Panhandle.
Red-breasted Swallow - Cecropis semirufa (6 days, high count 6) This large, attractive swallow was recorded from Okaukuejo in Etosha to Mahango on the Botswana border.
Mosque Swallow - Cecropis senegalensis (1 day, high count 2) Mahango.
Willow Warbler - Phylloscopus trochilus (5 days, high count 10) This little Palaearctic migrant was encountered regularly from October 17 on.
Greater Swamp-Warbler - Acrocephalus rufescens (2 days, high count 3) Seen in the Okavango Papyrus from Xaro Lodge.
Lesser Swamp Warbler - Acrocephalus gracilirostris (1 day, high count 6) Rundu sewage works only.
African Reed Warbler - Acrocephalus baeticatus (3 days, high count 6) Windhoek and Walvis sewage works.
Little Rush Warbler - Bradypterus baboecala (1 day, high count 1)
Recorded from the Okavango River near Xaro Lodge. We obtained good views of this and the above marshy species but in retrospect their subtleness is not looming large in my mind as a standout experience of the trip.
Rattling Cisticola - Cisticola chiniana (8 days, high count 8) Scattered sightings throughout the trip, our most frequently encountered cisticola.
Note - In contrast to larks, which I could usually work through on my own, the cisticolas were more challenging – they are typically identified by voice, habitat and range more than physical appearance and in any event often offer only brief, obscured views. With so much to see on a time-limited trip I relied on the guides to put names to them more than I am usually comfortable with.
Tinkling Cisticola - Cisticola rufilatus (2 days, high count 2) Seen along the B8 north to Rundu, including at the com tower.
Grey-backed Cisticola - Cisticola subruficapilla (1 day, high count 1) Daan Viljoen.
Luapula Cisticola - Cisticola luapula (1 day, high count 1) Moremi.
Chirping Cisticola - Cisticola pipiens (1 day, high count 12) Xaro.
Neddicky (Piping Cisticola) - Cisticola fulvicapilla (2 days, high count 2) Seen along the B8 north to Rundu, including at the com tower; visually distinctive.
Zitting Cisticola - Cisticola juncidis (1 day, high count 3) Moremi.
Desert Cisticola - Cisticola aridulus (7 days, high count 12) The only cisticola I felt any affection for; seen quite often bounding out of the tall, yellow savannah grass in Etosha and Moremi.
Rufous-eared Warbler - Malcorus pectoralis (1 day, high count 3) This striking bird was called in mid-morning out of the open scrub between the Okaukuejo and Halali camps in Etosha.
Tawny-flanked Prinia - Prinia subflava (3 days, high count 5) Seen along the Okavango River from Rundu to the Xaro Lodge.
Black-chested Prinia - Prinia flavicans (12 days, high count 6) A dry country hallmark recorded almost everyday from Windhoek to Rundu.
Yellow-breasted Apalis - Apalis flavida (2 days, high count 2) Seen around the Xaro Lodge and in Moremi.
Grey-backed Camaroptera - Camaroptera brevicaudata (10 days, high count 5) We had regular sightings of this confiding little “camera operator” throughout the tour.
Barred Wren-Warbler - Calamonastes fasciolatus (1 day, high count 1) 1 sighting only, called into a Pearl-spotted Owlet recording in Daan Viljoen.
Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Eremomela icteropygialis (5 days, high count 4) Found at Avis Dam, Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Etosha.
Green-capped Eremomela - Eremomela scotops (1 day, high count 5) 1 sighting only, in Moremi.
Burnt-necked Eremomela - Eremomela usticollis (3 days, high count 3) Scattered sightings from Daan Viljoen to the Erongos to Mahango.
Rockrunner - Aetops pycnopygius (2 days, high count 3) We had excellent views of this “must-see” Namibian near-endemic at the Avis dam in Windhoek and at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge (on the trail to the eagle lookout). Our first clue to its presence was the beautiful bubbling song.
Long-billed Crombec - Sylvietta rufescens (8 days, high count 6) Regular sightings throughout the trip.
Black-faced Babbler - Turdoides melanops (3 days, high count 11) This bird can be tricky but we were fortunate to have repeated sightings at the Mushara Lodge just east of Etosha. We had groups of them foraging among the chalets, pecking at car mirrors in the parking lot and travelling through the scrubby woodland by the lodge’s gate. We also recorded them by the roadside at the east entrance to Etosha.
Note - Our tour route offered the chance at 5 babbler species. Black-faced and Bare-cheeked can be difficult and Pied is somewhat uncommon. Arrow-marked and Hartlaub’s are the easiest.
Arrow-marked Babbler - Turdoides jardineii (5 days, high count 8) We had good numbers in the Okavango Panhandle and again in Moremi.
Hartlaub's Babbler - Turdoides hartlaubii (8 days, high count 25) We saw this bird everyday but one from Rundu through Moremi.
Southern Pied Babbler - Turdoides bicolor (3 days, high count 12) This bird was recorded along highway D2695 on the way to Tandala Ridge south of Etosha, northeast of Etosha towards Rundu and in Moremi.
Bare-cheeked Babbler - Turdoides gymnogenys (1 day, high count 6) Our only sighting was a midday encounter at the Tandala Ridge Bed and Breakfast south of Etosha along highway D2695.
Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler - Parisoma subcaeruleum (9 days, high count 6) Regular sightings until we hit the Okavango.
Layard’s Tit-Babbler - Parisoma layardi (1 day, high count 2) Our only sighting was in the scrubby woodland at the base of the Spitzkoppe.
Orange River White-eye - Zosterops pallidus (2 days, high count 6) This range-restricted species was easy to pick up in sparse ornamental garden shrubbery in Walvis Bay. We had several groups in the front yard of the bright yellow Lagoon Lodge along the main waterfront promenade.
African Yellow White-eye - Zosterops senegalensis (3 days, high count 6) Recorded along the Okavango River from the Kaisosi to Divava lodges.
Wattled Starling - Creatophora cinerea (6 days, high count 400) We saw a small flock at the Avis Dam near Windhoek, huge numbers at both the Windhoek and Rundu sewage treatment works and smaller numbers in the Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
Cape Starling - Lamprotornis nitens (10 days, high count 100) Regular sightings from Windhoek northeast to Mahango, but not thereafter.
Greater Blue-eared Starling - Lamprotornis chalybaeus (3 days, high count 12) Our only sightings were in Moremi Mopane woodland.
Meves's Starling - Lamprotornis mevesii (8 days, high count 40) Recorded each day from Mahango east through Moremi.
Burchell's Starling - Lamprotornis australis (11 days, high count 22) We had scattered sightings of this large, almost crow-like starling in dry western and central Namibia and more frequent encounters from Rundu through Moremi.
Violet-backed Starling - Cinnyricinclus leucogaster (8 days, high count 25) Daily sightings of this stunning bird from Rundu through Moremi.
Pale-winged Starling - Onychognathus nabouroup (5 days, high count 50) A dry country bird - Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen and the Erongo Mountains.
Yellow-billed Oxpecker - Buphagus africanus (4 days, high count 15)
Regular sightings in Moremi and Mahango.
Red-billed Oxpecker - Buphagus erythrorhynchus (6 days, high count 12) Regular sightings in Moremi and Mahango.
Groundscraper Thrush - Psophocichla litsipsirupa (8 days, high count 10) Common in Etosha; an impressively large thrush.
Kurrichane Thrush - Turdus libonyanus (2 days, high count 5) Only seen around the Kaisosi and Divava lodges in northeastern Namibia.
White-browed Robin-Chat - Cossypha heuglini (6 days, high count 6) Rundu to Mahango.
White-browed Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas leucophrys (3 days, high count 2) Eastern Etosha and Mahango.
Kalahari Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas paena (4 days, high count 6) Etosha and Mahango
Herero Chat - Namibornis herero (1 day, high count 2) We left Walvis Bay well before dawn and searched for and found this must-see bird in the brush at the base of the Spitzkoppe. This chat is named for the Herero people of central Namibia, most of who were pushed off their land and killed in the early 1900s. In 2004 the German government officially apologized for, and expressed grief about, the genocide.
African Stonechat - Saxicola torquatus (3 days, high count 4) We saw this bird along the Okavango River near Rundu and again in Moremi.
Capped Wheatear - Oenanthe pileata (6 days, high count 3) Etosha and Moremi.
Mountain Wheatear - Oenanthe monticola (6 days, high count 25) We saw this rock-loving bird at Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen, the Spitzkoppe and the Erongos. Most were dark-phase.
Tractrac Chat - Cercomela tractrac (3 days, high count 20) A roadside bird in Namib-Naukluft Park and the Spitzkoppe area.
Note - A variety of small flycatcher-like birds were a constant roadside presence – perching in brush, low trees and on fence lines. Marico and Chat Flycatcher were particularly common.
Familiar Chat - Cercomela familiaris (5 days, high count 4) Seen in dry country; Daan Viljoen, the Namib-Naukluft, the Spitzkoppe and the Erongos.
Ant-eating Chat - Myrmecocichla formicivora (4 days, high count 20) Observed in grassy areas in Etosha.
Arnot’s Chat - Myrmecocichla arnotti (1 day, high count 2) 2 in Mopane woodland in Moremi; uncommon.
Short-toed Rock Thrush - Monticola brevipes (6 days, high count 8) Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen, the Spitzkoppe and the Erongo Wilderness Lodge produced sightings of this beautiful bird.
Southern Black Flycatcher - Melaenornis pammelaina (3 days, high count 8) We saw this bird in the Rundu area and Moremi. It resembles the Drongo, but is of more delicate build.
Pale Flycatcher - Bradornis pallidus (3 days, high count 8) Rundu to Mahango
Chat Flycatcher - Bradornis infuscatus (5 days, high count 20) Regular sightings in the dry country at the Spitzkoppe and through Etosha.
Marico Flycatcher - Bradornis mariquensis (8 days, high count 30) A dry country flycatcher, recorded throughout the tour, from Avis Dam to Moremi.
Spotted Flycatcher - Muscicapa striata (2 days, high count 1) This palearctic migrant was seen on October 19 on the trail behind the Xaro Lodge.
Collared Sunbird - Hedidipna collaris (2 days, high count 4) Northeast Namibia and the Okavango Panhandle only.
Amethyst Sunbird - Chalcomitra amethystina (3 days, high count 20) Northeast Namibia and Okavango Panhandle only.
Scarlet-chested Sunbird - Chalcomitra senegalensis (3 days, high count 6) Scattered sightings - Windhoek sewage works and the Okavango Panhandle.
Marico Sunbird - Cinnyris mariquensis (3 days, high count 6) Recorded at Daan Viljoen, the Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
White-bellied Sunbird - Cinnyris talatala (4 days, high count 4) Northeast Namibia, the Okavango Panhandle and Moremi.
Dusky Sunbird - Cinnyris fusca (11 days, high count 20) This was the common sunbird, seen on the first 11 days of our trip. It was quick to investigate the owlet recording.
White-browed Sparrow-weaver - Plocepasser mahali (17 days, high count 60) We had regular sightings of this bird throughout the tour; its atypical shape and prominent markings made it a roadside distraction.
Sociable Weaver - Philetairus socius (5 days, high count 100) The bird, and its haystack nests, were a common sight in the Etosha area.
House Sparrow - Passer domesticus (6 days, high count 6) An urban bird.
Great Sparrow - Passer motitensis (4 days, high count 12) The Spitzkoppe and the Erongo Mountains.
Cape Sparrow - Passer melanurus (2 days, high count 30) Walvis Bay.
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow - Passer diffusus (15 days, high count 80) Many.
Yellow-throated Petronia - Gymnoris superciliaris (3 days, high count 2) An obscure presence in Moremi.
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver - Bubalornis niger (8 days, high count 16) Regular sightings, the bulky twig nests are distinctive.
Note - As with larks and cisticolas, weavers presented particular birding opportunities and challenges along our route. Some were widespread and easy to identify, for others it was guide-knowledge of specific sites that got us onto the birds. In October most of the males we saw were in striking breeding plumage. Weaver nests, under various stages of construction, use or abandonment were a frequent sight during the tour.
Scaly-feathered Weaver - Sporopipes squamifrons (5 days, high count 10) Scattered sightings from Daan Viljoen through Etosha.
Thick-billed Weaver - Amblyospiza albifrons (1 day, high count 12) Xaro Lodge in the Okavango panhandle.
Spectacled Weaver - Ploceus ocularis (1 day, high count 2) From the boat, Xaro Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle.
Holub’s Golden Weaver - Ploceus xanthops (4 days, high count 6)
Okavango Panhandle.
Southern Brown-throated Weaver - Ploceus xanthopterus (4 days, high count 12) Okavango Panhandle.
Lesser Masked Weaver - Ploceus intermedius (2 days, high count 2) Okavango Panhandle.
Southern Masked Weaver - Ploceus velatus (15 days, high count 35) This is the default Namibian weaver. We saw it on the first 14 days of our trip (Windhoek through to Mahango) and then again in Moremi.
Chestnut Weaver - Ploceus rubiginosus (1 day, high count 200) Non-breeding individuals were seen at Tandala Ridge along the D2695 south of Etosha.
Red-headed Weaver - Anaplectes rubriceps (5 days, high count 5) We saw this bird along the Okavango River and again in Moremi.
Red-billed Quelea - Quelea quelea (11 days, high count 500 plus) Recorded regularly in dry country throughout the trip. The biggest numbers were in Etosha but we did not see the spectacular flocks that some reports mention.
Fan-tailed Widowbird - Euplectes axillaries (3 days, high count 20) We saw drab birds at Rundu and in the Okavango Panhandle.
Note - October is generally too early to see the spectacular breeding plumages of Widowbirds, Bishops and Whydahs. During the time of our visit a few individuals were just starting to turn.
Green-winged Pytilia - Pytilia melba (7 days, high count 4) This beautiful dry-country bird was regularly recorded in low numbers at Daan Viljoen, the Erongos, Etosha and Moremi.
Red-headed Finch - Amadina erythrocephala (6 days, high count 40) Daan Viljoen and Etosha.
Brown Firefinch - Lagonosticta nitidula (4 days, high count 65) This localized species can be tricky; we were very fortunate to have them at our feet in the gardens of the Kaisosi and Divava lodges along the Okavango, on the trail behind Xaro Lodge, and in Moremi.
Red-billed Firefinch - Lagonosticta senegala (2 days, high count 6) Avis Dam and Mahango only.
Blue Waxbill - Uraeginthus angolensis (11 days, high count 25) This uniquely blue species was regularly sighted throughout the trip.
Violet-eared Waxbill - Uraeginthus granatina (10 days, high count 20) A beautiful, dry country bird encountered throughout the trip - a tour favorite.
Common Waxbill - Estrilda astrild (3 days, high count 12) A few sightings only, seen along the promenade in Windhoek and then again in Moremi.
Black-faced Waxbill - Estrilda erythronotos (8 days, high count 18) We had sightings of this beautiful but flighty dry-country bird at the Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen Game Reserve, the Spitzkoppe, Etosha and Moremi.
African Quail-Finch - Ortygospiza fuscocrissa (1 day, high count 2) “This is a good place for Quail-Finch” said Moremi guide Grant Reed at a non-descript patch of savannah. 1 immediately flushed beside our vehicle, calling loudly.
Pin-tailed Whydah - Vidua macroura (1 day, high count 5) A number of birds showing the first traces of breeding plumage were seen in Moremi.
Shaft-tailed Whydah - Vidua regia (4 days, high count 3) Scattered non-breeding birds.
Long-tailed Paradise Whydah - Vidua paradisaea (2 days, high count 5) Non-breeding birds in Etosha and Moremi.
Cape Wagtail - Motacilla capensis (6 days, high count 20) Common in wet areas around Windhoek and Walvis Bay, also at Xaro and Moremi.
African Pied Wagtail - Motacilla aguimp (4 days, high count 2) We saw this bird along the Okavango River in northeastern Namibia (Divava Lodge) and then again in the Okavango Panhandle (Lawdons, Drotsky and Xaro lodges).
African Pipit - Anthus cinnamomeus (6 days, high count 6) Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen and Etosha.
Wood Pipit - Anthus nyassae (1 day, high count 2) A pair were sighted at the com tower along the B8 in northeastern Namibia.
Long-billed Pipit - Anthus similis (1 day, high count 1) Daan Viljoen.
Plain-backed Pipit - Anthus leucophrys (4 days, high count 2) Mahango and Moremi.
Black-throated Canary - Serinus atrogularis (6 days, high count 40) Scattered sightings through the tour.
Yellow-fronted Canary - Serinus mozambicus (2 days, high count 15) Rundu.
Yellow Canary - Serinus flaviventris (2 days, high count 4) Eastern Etosha.
White-throated Canary - Serinus albogularis (2 days, high count 3) This dry-country canary was seen at the Spitzkoppe and the Erongos.
Lark-like Bunting - Emberiza impetuani (4 days, high count 12) Etosha waterholes.
Cinnamon-breasted (Rock) Bunting - Emberiza tahapisi (1 day, high count 20) Our only sighting was at the main waterhole at the Halali camp in Etosha. The birds were in the brush immediately below and to the right of the viewing area.
Cape Bunting - Emberiza capensis (4 days, high count 12) Daan Viljoen, the Spitzkoppe and the Erongo Wilderness Lodge.
Golden-breasted Bunting - Emberiza flaviventris (12 days, high count 25) This brightly-coloured bird was seen at Avis Dam, Daan Viljoen, Etosha through to the Rundu area and then again in Moremi.
Annotated Mammal List – No space for full mammal & herp list - email pauljodiATmagma.ca